I purchased a '96 Land Rover Discovery. Along with the truck was a Husky 8 winch. The previous owner told me that she was having trouble with the solenoids.
I downloaded the Manual for the unit from the Superwinch website. I rewired the entire assembly as per instructions. Prior to wiring the motor I checked for voltage at all connections. I applied a meter between the batteries positive and the connections made at the motor. I was receiving a voltage >
12 Volts. Should I be getting this? I would think that there should be no ground at these terminals.
I then attached the remote and while still having the multimeter attached I depressed the button. The solenoid clicked and the meter read 0 Volts. I know the motor cannot run on 0 Volts so... what should I check next?
I've not played with the Husky winch but I assume they are a serial wound motor, the same as the Warn ones that I am familiar with.... ISTR that Husky solenoids were considered better than Warn at one time and used by Warn owners before the Allbright ones came along and dispensed with the individual solenoids altogether so they should be similar.
If so then you would expect 3 power connections to the motor (Field 1, Field 2 and Armature) and an earth connection to the other side of the armature.
When the solenoids activate, they connect either F1 or F2 to the Armature (A) and power to the field connector not connected to the Armature. The current then flows from F1 to F2 to A to Earth when the motor turns in one direction and F2 to F1 to A to Earth to turn it the other way. You can test the motor by putting a jump lead between F1 and A and then connecting power +ve to F2 and the earth to -ve.
Your multimeter readings sound correct up to a point. Remember that when you activated the solenoids you were measuring the difference between the battery positive and the motor so 0 volts would indicate that the motor had 12V. I am surprised that you get what looks like an earth connection at the field windings though. It may be due to a bad solenoid but it could just be that the solenoids are configured to provide a changeover so one field winding is connected to the armature whenever the solenoids aren't activated. That being the case you will get an earth potential through the armature winding.
The most likely cause of your problem is a solenoid not providing a good contact and, as a result, you're not getting enough current through the circuit to turn the motor. I normally test the motor first without the solenoid pack and, if that is OK, you can then try and figure out which part of the circuit the solenoid pack isn't fulfilling.
If you want any spares BTW I can highly recommend PG Winches http://www. winchrepairs.co.uk/ they are extremely helpful, the prices aren't bad and they seem to have all sorts of bits in stock.
I have used them several times and have found their service and knowledge to be excellent. Local winch places were telling me my winch motor was stuffed because the solenoids were clicking and passing current, but the motor wasn't turning. Phil at PG Winches said that was arse, and the solenoids were clicking but not releasing. Net result, £30ish for 2 new solenoids and postage as opposed to the mega bucks for a new winch motor.
The diagnosis from PG Winches was over the phone too, while 2 others places actually had the winch and solenoid pack to play with. basically, they wanted to sell me a new Warn XD9000i, but I didn't want one!
-- Simon Isaacs
Peterborough 4x4 Club Vice Chairman, Newsletter Editor and Webmaster (how much more....)
3.5V8 100" Hybrid, now LPG converted Part owner of 1976 S3 LWT, currently under restoration Suzuki SJ410 (Girlfriend's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next
1993 200 TDi Discovery (the Pug 106 is dead, long live the Pug)
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.