In about 10 days I will be replacing the rear cross member on my 110 CSW.
It is one with extensions, so I have a number of rusty bolts (and nuts) to take out (including a towbar).
Some are sacrificial and will be removed with an angle grinder (e.g. those holding the tub at the back), for others they will need to be saved.
For these latter ones, what are the groups recommendations for a penetrant to get in there and make my life a little easier?
Cheers
Peter
Plus Gas
Heat - nothing in the way of liquid penetrants comes close to the application of the blue-tongued lizard (oxy-acetylene torch) when it comes to recalcitrant bolts.
William Tasso uttered summat worrerz funny about:
Seconeded , or diesel if you can't get any.
Lee D
Not sure about the 110 but when I did the one on my 90 the biggest PITA was the wiring loom, beware the heat.
But what do you do when you can't use oxy because it's alloy?, I have a filler plug on the transfer box that's well stuck and no liquid I've tried has made the slightest difference, nor those expensive freezer sprays, nor every mechanical means I can come up with. It's the only plug on the whole vehicle that's defeated me!.
Greg
Careful heat - applied to the aluminium section. With the thermal expansion rate of aluminium you don't need to get it very hot to start things loosening up.
You can use oxy on it, you would have to be being pretty careless to melt the casing.
Get a big nut, and weld it through the hole onto the plug. The heat will break the plug loose, and you then have a big nut to grip it with.
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