"PaulM" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
You're going to have to get the fault codes read.
No, they don't.
Does the car get used mainly for short journeys, round town? If it's got a particulate filter, they get clogged up if the car's rarely got PROPERLY hot.
Got an '06 1.9CDTI Vetra which developed an occasional case of lighting the 'Spanner on a car outline' warning light on the dash while idling sat in traffic. It was sometimes accompanied by an apparent misfire, but never stalled or caused a problem. Revving cleared the light and the misfire.It's arrival and departure was very on/off giving the impression it was an electrical problem.
A couple of days ago that developed into a misfire and loss of power doing
75mph on the motorway, albeit at low throttle settings. Again giving it more throttle restored smooth running after a few seconds.It's now been clear for a couple of days, but today I have a new problem.
Turning the key, the diesel pre-heat 'coil' dash light does not appear. The car starts and runs fine, but the dashlight resembling the outline of an engine remains on constantly. There is no other symptom except the occassional misfire while idling sat in traffic, but this time the 'spanner' wanring light does not appear.
The manual lists the spanner light as engine electronics, and the latest light as emissions control problem.
I'm trying to put this information together to come to a conclusion. This is my first diesel, so I don't really know much about them. My first thought was lamba sensor (assuming that diesels have them?!).
Anyone got any bright ideas what can cause this chain of events? Starting to worry it's getting expensive....
Cheers Paul
Got the codes read this morning. Injector 3 is failing. £290 for a new one or £190 for a 'recon' one.
Sound about right?
And yes, mainly town journeys, but also a couple of longer trips each week.
Thanks Paul
"PaulM" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
If you've got the time, investigate getting the set reconditioned. I know modern diesel injectors are a lot more complex than petrol, but I had all four of mine done for £50 last year, with turnaround in a week.
How long is "longer"?
Better still. open each connector, spray with electrical contact cleaner, then plug them in and out a few times.
WD40 is a water dispersant. It's only good at what it does...
Chris
But check there's no contact grease in there to prevent corrosion. Should be replaced after cleaning, which will wash it out.
After a brief moment of confusion about why you wouldn't use contact grease or contact cleaner/lube I realise you meant no contact grease already in the socket.
Yes - didn't put it too well. So I'll have another try.
Many loom connectors are filled with special grease to help prevent corrosion. Washing that out with contact cleaner may result in a quick fix if there was a poor contact, but not a longer term one.
Although that sort of grease probably isn't used on something like an injector connector which gets hot through engine heat.
Not that myth again. WD40 does what it says on the tin - all the things it says on the tin. It's a penetrating lubricant and rust preventant as well as a water dispersant. It's not as good at any of those things as a more specialised product, admittedly, but it does them.
I trust you use duck tape only for taping ducks...
I've yet to see a switch cleaner that doesn't contain something to replace the lubricant. Usual one is Servisol Super 10. (In fact, Servisol list this under their "Lubricants" category.)
Super 10 can be used at temperatures up to 150C
Chris
That's a switch cleaner, though. Plenty of contact cleaners around that don't have any lubricant.
Where does it say on the tin that it's good as an electrical contact cleaner? (In fact, it's actually rather poor at that particular job.)
I don't know what "duck" tape is.
I know what *duct* tape is; it's tape for sealing the joints in air ducting.
I also know what *D*uck tape is; it's a brand of duct tape with a "humorous" play on words.
Don't disagree - but that's not what you said. You saiid it was *only* a water dispersant because that's what it was originally called. It does clean contacts, though not as well as contact cleaner, but it is also prone to catching fire from electrical sparks. don't ask how I know this...
It's one of the common names for that type of tape - and also, by the way, an older name than duct tape.
Where?
I said it is a water dispersant; I also said it's only good at what it does. Nowhere did I say it's *only* a water dispersant.
What is beyond question, and what we appear to agree on, is that it is not the right thing for the OP to use in the context of his problem.
In many situations, when used on electrical connections, it is also prone to leaving a sticky residue that will ultimately cause more problems than it solves. Emery paper and vaseline is a better solution if nothing else is to hand.
That link, which has been posted many times on Usenet, is only one person's view. In that view, he says
"It?s possible to make a case that either is right"
His view is also that the original use of "duck tape" was of a product totally unlike what we would now expect from that term.
Of course the *name* doesn't automatically do so. However, I didn't say it did.
I reiterate; nowhere does it say on the tin that it is suitable as a switch or contact cleaner, and neither is is.
Chris
up till that point you almost had an argument. Emery papers generally a crap idea for electrical contacts. Apart from anything else it's quite often conductive, if you really must use something abrasive then fine grit sandpapers better. It's no worse as an electrical cleaner lubricant than most products sold specifically for the purpose.
Why on earth would its conductivity matter? I wasn't proposing cleaning live terminals!
Chris
If you have any area of a commutator that is darkened due to excessive brush wear, and then you clean that area with any sort of abrasive, all you will do is increase the amount that it is out of round. Subsequently, brush and commutator wear will be at a much faster rate.
Of course, as a bit of a bodge to keep a wiper motor or similar going on an old banger, it might be acceptable. It's not a proper job, however.
(On larger motors that have brushgear access when running, you would use a commutator stone, but that's getting *really* OT for this NG!)
No, but I did say "when nothing better was to hand".
Generally, I would be forced to disagree with that.
I do use WD40 for many things that some "experts" tell you it is not suitable for. Lock lubrication, and providing some rust prevention, as examples. 47 years of experience have shown me that it is not suitable for recovering dirty or corroded electrical connections.
Chris
Ah, we obviously did our training in different places, you can polish something that's nearly round to less runout if you're carefull.
I've always done it by spinning the motor up with an external motor.
No lubricant can recover a corroded contact
But a product designed for the purpose stands a better chance of making one usable than any amount of WD40.
Chris
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.