The cylinder head saga continues...

VW Scirocco GT2 1992 1781cc 8 valve

I've done a few heads but have never *quite* come across this before...

The Haynes manual says the torquing up procedure is: engine cold, tighten bolts in sequence to 40Nm, then in sequence to 60Nm, then a **further** 180 degrees.

Now, the thing is, after 60Nm I can get another 45 degrees, and maybe another 15 degrees before it //feels// like the bolts are going to shear. It's very unsettling to go any further.

That further 180 degrees sounds substantial given that the difference between 40 and 60 wasn't that far in terms of rotation.

I'm holding off before proceeding, hopefully one of you chaps will have a good piece of advice for me! Like sell it, get a better car? ;-))

Cheers, Ken.

Reply to
DocDelete
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If you are definitely using the right scale on the torque wrench and have properly lubricated a set of new bolts and you made sure that the bolts are the correct length for your engine and you made sure there was no junk left at the bottom of the holes and no liquid down them, deep breath after that lot. Then you should be ok to give them that last half a turn to engage the stretch bolt system.

MrCheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

Deep breath? You're right there - it's an excrutiating moment! I'm giving it a whirl tomorrow morning, then it's light blue touch paper time ;-) Cheers.

Reply to
DocDelete

Have you replaced the bolts with new ones? The extra turning distance is to stretch the bolts, so if the bolts are old you'll just have to leave it at that.

Reply to
Dan Buchan

Errr, that won't work! You have to get the bolt into a sufficient state of tension for apply a downward pressure greater than the combustion forces, otherwise the head/block joint will experience a cyclic load and will rapidly fail. For conventional non-stretch bolts, you would aim to get the bolts tension to about 80% of the yield point. Stretch bolts are taken beyond the yield point, mainly because it's easier to automate the factory assembly process - as the bolt yields to absorb the 'excess' tension, it's no longer necessary to accurately torque the bolt. To re-use the bolt, you would still need to torque it past the yield point - as the bolt is weakened every time this happens, they often fail on re-use as they are designed to be used once only. The OP should use new bolts, the bolts will yield as they are designed to if the tightening procedure is followed. Lots of info in stretch head bolts here:

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Reply to
Bob Davis

I understand what you're saying but he's already tightened them past what he thinks is reasonable (hard to judge without being there). Assuming he is using the old bolts (might be new ones after all, he hasn't said) I reckon he can either leave it and hope for the best, or replace the bolts. If he tries the first and it doesn't work it costs him a head gasket and some time, but new bolts are probably quite pricey. I've reused the stretch bolts on a small VW engine without any problems, bearing in mind that there is some margin for error in the specs, but maybe I was just lucky.

Reply to
Dan Buchan

Thanks all -

New bolts are £1 each I've found. BTW is there any way to identify "stretch" bolts - there seems to be some discrepancy in the old Haynes as to what type of bolts are used across the model years.

-- Ken Davidson

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Reply to
DocDelete

AFAIK the bolts are the same, it's just a matter of how they tightened - If the final setting is a specific value on a torque wrench, that means the bolt is conventional - if it's a torque + angle, that would indicate a stretch bolt.

Reply to
Bob Davis

The ones you have to move through an angle after torquing are stretch bolts.

£1 each is all right. Christ, little bolts from Homebase cost nearly that much. I'm sure I read they were £80 a set for my car, that's why I was advocating stinginess.
Reply to
Dan Buchan

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