When a lock is frozen (not literally but figuratively) WD-40 works great and those who recommend against it have no idea what they are talking about. The fact that WD-40 is only temporary is exactly why it should be used for locks, since it doesn't stay around for ever (unlike graphite).
Best way to de-ice a lock is to heat the key. Better yet don't buy a cheap car that doesn't have a remote, or Ford like buttons ;)
Yes we do.
They're lubricated with graphite from the factory.
Moron.
Since when has WD 40 been described as a lock de-icer? Hell you'll be saying next that it can be used to lubricate condoms - then you really will be left holding the proverbial greasy baby. *eg*
WD 40 is simply designed as a water repellent and rust and corrosion protector - and any other *miraculous* oiling or penetrating oil successes have been 'accidentally' found during use (I have used in small shutter for concrete as releasant oil).
BTW, if you want to use a 'true' penetrating oil - then buy a can of Plus Gas.
and those who recommend against it have no idea what they are
(A bit like you really).
Been playing locks all me working life - and the first thing you learn is not to oil the internals of the things! Well you are told that first, then you ignore the lesson and then re-learn it the hard way later when you are given the sometimes difficult job of sorting out the mess you made by *not* listening to the advice!
The fact that WD-40 is only temporary is exactly why
Should never spray the stuff into locks - if you have to use it in an emergence, then rub a very, very thin smear of the stuff onto the key (leaving the key almost dry) and then insert the key into the lock barrel a few times before turning.
If you have problems with a padlock that is internally rusted and *MUST* be opened, then do what has to be done to get it open using whatever means necessary - and the throw it away (that one is f**ked anyway) and buy a new one.
Try asking the professionals how long graphite stays around - a bit longer than the lead in the old pencil I bet?
I specifically said "not literally but figuratively" when referring to "frozen" locks.
Why don't you discuss this with Conor. He suggested using spray grease in car locks.
Its good for lighting bonfires....
Go to your GM dealer and get Heat Riser Lubricant and Rust Preventative. $8-12 a can and blows the doors off anything else out there.
I would not use WD-40 in key locks. While it initially frees up the lock, I've found that the lock actually gets worse over time. The best stuff I've found for locks is aerosol Lock-Ease. The aerosol cans come with a snorkel which fits into the key opening, and after the liquid lubricant dries, it leaves a coating of graphite behind.
Do GM dealers still sell the stuff? Since heat risers have become history, I figured that they wouldn't sell it any more. That is the closest I've found to "all purpose" lubricant.
Think yourself lucky. I was topping up my tyres yesterday and my footpump (an admittedly rather cheap Halfrauds number) disintegrated. The joint where the piston rod attaches to the pump frame had broken. The pump was consigned to the scrap metal bin, and I had a spare pump anyway, an older but better quality Hella item.
Quite right, Sir! I myself never use duck tape for anything other than taping ducks. There ought to be a law...
Just bought two more cans in September...
Left one on my workspace two weeks later and ran over it with the Supra. Now have the best lubricated driveway in the world...
Man!!! It isn't duck tape....it's DUCT tape. You know, heating ducts and sealing the joints in air ducts.
oohhh....wait, you were making joke right? hehehehe
I love that stuff but haven't had it for about 10 years. I use it on hinges, door stops, hood latches, bicycle chains, power antennas, etc.
Nope, confusingly it can be either:
FSVO joke, maybe...
Chris
I think you need to see a quack, but just think of the bill.
I first caught onto it when I was selling used cars and the boss had some. I needed to remove something from the Tercel for maintenance and had a look around and found that stuff. I sprayed the bolt and waited about 45 minutes.
When I went back to the car, any hint of rust was *GONE* . I did the work and then sprayed a lot of nuts and bolts under the hood.
When I looked the next day, they looked like BRAND NEW!!
Moot point. That's another bit of folk wisdom.
Sort of. Try "The map is not the territory".
The service manager at an Olds/Toyota dealer told me about the stuff. I believe that Chrysler dealers used to sell a similar, if not exact same relabeled product.
Ford dealers sell a very good rubber bushing lubricant that works well on the sway bar bushings on old Camrys that used to groan.
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