exhaust leak update.

"Sleeker GT Phwoar" wrote

A manifold stud coming loose!! Without copious amounts of releasing fluid / shearing!!!! On it's own!!!

What is the world coming to...

Stranger things seem to happen to these amazingly efficient japanese cars.

Yep. I like using local engineering when I can.

The Decat is an off the shelf kind of thing that he does anyway. And his direct email as given to me by some of the GT4 club guys who have used him before.

Problem with phoning is finding time during the normal business day when I can get away from my desk.

Shame is we are in big open plan office, so talking car stuff from my deskphone is a big nono, that means finding time to get away and talk to someone whop would probably be happier working on cars than talking crap to a nobody like me.

In article , snipped-for-privacy@Somewhere.Somewhere=20 spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

I've been told that a full Decat/downpipe, and Catback exhaust system=20 including flexi (=A3150 on it's own) in 3" stainless is about =A3750 for a= =20 GT$ (that may have been a ST205 which are slightly more expensive).

I would be looking for 2.5" (easier to get over the axle and doesn't=20 suffer as many boost spike probs and not any sort of restriction below=20

350BHP) for an ST185 so should be slightly cheaper.

Probably looking at =A31k for Manifold/Decat/System. Need to work out how= =20 I would pay that much off (still need to pay for Plastic and I'm trying=20 to avoid using it) but atleast when they make a Decat pipe, they can=20 make it with all the original mounts inplace to help support the turbo,=20 so manifold cracking shouldn't be such an issue, as long as I can get=20 the original heatshield back on.

--=20 Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)

The toilet/mobile phone trick will work wonders for you.

Fraser

Jesus. I'd just flog the car and find another one, seriously.

If you think about how much you could get for your GT4, plus the cost of the exhaust, you could probably get something in much better mechanical condition.

It really isn't worth spending that kind of money on such an old car.

Er, if that's what you need, then it's new-car-time :)

Take that thousand quid, plus the part-ex value of your car, and get something else !

I bought mine at the bottom end of the market, for middle market=20 condition, and a slightly high mileage.

It's all wear and tear stuff. And I don't sell a car with some wear and=20 tear when I like it. If I hated the thing fair enough.

Bodily there is a patch of rust visible anywhere, evne on the couple of=20 minor dings and scrapes (about =A3100 to blow which I shall do later in=20 the summer).

It's a good solid car that needs some fettle, not a bodily shed on it's=20 last legs mechanically. I could just get the manifold skimmed if it=20 isn't cracked, or if it is just loose I'll tighten it.

You may have realised, I'm a perfectionist. I like my cars to be right=20 even when they are sheds. When they are this good, I like them to be=20 factory perfect, or maybe even improved where possible (things change in=20

14 years). I'm working toward it.

I'm planning on having this one for a few years now. If something stupid=20 goes wrong I'll re-asess, but the biggest thing I can see going wrong is=20 the clutch wearing out. Only MOT issue will be the leaking manifold, and=20 I should have that sorted by June when it is due.

--=20 "Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

Thats not what I need, but it will improve flow, drop the entry into=20 boost by about 500 revs, raise peak power, and move it very slightly up=20 the rev range, and allow better use of a dawes device/MBC should I=20 choose to fit one.

And a genuine Toyota exhaust won't be much cheaper for the whole lot.

What it might need is a manifold, plus about =A3120 of gaskets, or maybe a= =20 cat (or decat pipe), or maybe a single section of the exhaust, or maybe=20 just a bolt tightening/replacing, or sheared stud replacing. What I=20 fancied doing was replacing the lot if I could afford, and getting more=20 out of the car, and getting a lifetime warrenty for the exhaust.

Even if it is only =A3500 for a custom 2.5" exhaust instead of =A3750 that= =20 the 3" costs, can't be much less than =A3250 for a manifold, if not more.

And you suggested a manifold remember :)

--=20 "Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

Ah, that's ok then.

We're talking a whole kilo pound here !

You're gonna get very little gain, for very huge outlay :)

...but a Timax/Bosal pattern system from your local exhaust place, will be about £50 per section :)

Well if the manifold *is* shafted, then you don't really have much choice but to replace it :)

My point was that if it's gonna cost a grand to sort, then I wouldn't bother.

But if, as, you say, you can prolly sort it for a few hundred quid - then it's a much more feasable proposition :)

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Actually probably more than you think, not just in figures terms but in performance too.

WIth a Decat, full system, (manifold if I can be bothered/afford), a Dawes device fitted and set to arround 11PSI instead of the factory 8, and Tvsv disabled and the cone I've fitted, plus the cold air feed I'm going to make up to replace the factory resonator box, I should be able to get about 230bhp from a little investment (even less If PeteM's mate still has those Mongoose systems in his lockup).

And dropping 30 kilos by losing the cast iron cat, more from the cast iron manifold, plus about 8 pounds from the losing the weight of the underbonnet sound deadening, and also gaining heat reduction at the same time, should help.

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Neither Timax or Bosal list for the GT4 models (ST165/185 similar, ST205=20 different).

Even Walker don't do anything. Jetex do nothing tailored. Sebring/Remus do nothing. Even Quicksilver don't do one, and BTB have taken down their old pattern=20 catalogue. Scorpion used to, but apparently not any more (Seems that Need4speed=20 still lists it at =A3350+VAT). =A3400 roughly retail for a Mongoose. or whatever Haywood and Scott/Tubetorque/Powerflow/ExhaustsUk can come up=20 with. And I feel more inclined to maybe pay a little more for the first=20 two.

Not easy to find an exhaust that fits, works, and may actually improve=20 appearance, noise and power at the same time. If I just wanted noise and=20 looks, I would Peco away, but I value what little rep an old fart like=20 me can actually have.

--=20 Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)

Really ?

I've always found they offer an almost universal range.

Timax even did a manifold -> cat section, including the flexi-pipe, for my '97-onwards TI - and Rover only made a couple of thousand late Turbos (although I suspect the exhaust is shared with the Diesel, cos the engine block is the same, so that might be why).

Agreed - a nice exhaust is nice.

But I've never been able to justify it, when they're an order of magnitude more expensive than the pattern stuff, for such small gains. I'd rather spend my cash on brakes, performance, and nice rims :)

If that's what floats your boat, then do it !

I bet it's not :)

But if you don't bother with all the exhaust stuff, and just raise the boost from 8 to 11, and you'll probably see over 220bhp - so most of the way there.

I'm running constant 12psi in the TI, up from the stock variable-but-somewhere-around-9-or-10-psi-some-of-the-time, and the stock exhaust copes just fine. It's no more/less breathless at high/low load/revs than it was before.

Also remember that 230bhp peak is gonna be somewhere over 6000rpm. Do you ever rev that high ? If I sorted out all my flow, then I could probably add

10bhp more onto my peak power output - but if it was sat at 6500rpm (which it would be) then I'd never get to see it. So why bother :)

Yep.

Do it !

:D

Well, I had the turbo heatshield off.

What a palaver.

1) remove IC protective cover. 2) Remove IC 3) Remove Dump Valve T piece for more room. 4) Loosen strange bracket held on by a 14mm bolt that doesn't appear to do anything but would need the alternator removed to remove. 5) Remove Turbo Heat shield. 6) refit dump valve T piece. 7) Refit IC.

Start engine. Have ten seconds to see where the smoke is rising. rev it some, hear the crack/chirp where it is leaking. Can't find it for definate, but none of the bolts look loose, and the ones I could get a 12mm on an extension onto where very tight.

Some white deposits round the whole of the Manifold to Turbo gasket, worse toward the back. But, the sound appeared to be coming from the manifold to head area.

1) remove IC protective cover. 2) Remove IC 3) Remove Dump Valve T piece for more room. 4) Loosen strange bracket held on by a 14mm bolt that doesn't appear to do anything but would need the alternator removed to remove. 5) refit turbo heatshield. 6) refit dump valve T piece. 7) Refit IC. 8) refit IC protective mesh cover.

Take it out for a run to make sure it is still working.

Everything boosts good, boosts/dumps a little earlier, so something may have been loose.

but after a good run at tmperature, when it idles for the first second or two, it dips to arround 600 and gets lumpy, bouncing 5-700, 5-700,

5-700, then returns to a normal 7-800rpm idle. Did this before I started messing, and was one of my reasons for looking.

Might try adjusting the dump valve a little tighter still, incase it is leaking boost and messing up the AFM's metered air.

It's a double spring one so it shouldn't affect idle like a single spring or a diaphram one does.