Best no BS motor oil/filter comparison?

If you've only replaced the front brake pads you don't have a lot of miles on it or are lucky to only drive on the open interstate. And what? No tires? They've got to be at least dry-rotted by now.

My car's list will look like a lot, but it's over 181K and it's all wear stuff. The only 'non wear' items might be the evap valve and evap sensor and the water pump. Oh and the pinion seal. And I think I may have to replace the thermostat soon (but that is reg maint for some people). But water pumps are standard replacement items for most japanese timing belt equiped cars. I replaced the one in my car probably somewhere around

130K, and timing belts and water pumps on japanese cars get replaced at 60K if they need it or not.

There is also the little point that *I* can not read those Japanese web pages completely and, how does one know that the product there is the same as the product here?

I heartily disagree. Duct tape will probably hole that small TV on the wall just as well as the bracket. Why would you take the chance.

You need to look at that inside of one. It doesn't work that way and as I mentioned, the cap is filled with epoxy.

Why would that be? They only tested Mobil 1 10-30. Somewhat meaningless to someone using Amsoil, Redline or Royal Purple. You also say that anecdotal evidence in mostly meaningless, however I suggest that if *you* were the one who got a consistent gain in mileage or track times you would find said evidence far more useful.

Since you don't use synthetic oil, how would you know?

See? IDidn't I tell you?

Because we aren't comparing duct tape to a bracket. We are comparing one style of bracket to another style without benefit of the capabilities of either bracket relative to minimum requirements.

It stuck to regular oil changes didn't it? The benefits I look to get from synthetics are 10,000 mile/1 year change intervals. Any decent dino oil can do 6000/6 months. It's not a criticism of their test.

No, I don't use Amsoil and never would. My recommendation of synthetic oil is based on using it for 10 years and using conventional oil for 30 years.

what sort of word is "IDidn't" ? Maybe you shouldn't throw stones mr. glass house.

It's a dirty job, but someone has to do it. Don't they?

I once cut open a used Fram PH2951, and it had metal end caps. I did this because I had dropped the new filter, denting it on the end, and wanted to see if anything inside could have gotten hit.

A statistical analysis of actual data would come close to proof.. I havent seen anything approaching it.

Fram makes 4 different "grades" of filters, which range in price from about $3 to $11 (they also make filters for OEM use and for other companies). Trying to lump them all together as one product, would be like comparing a Chevy with a Cadillac, just because they are both made by GM.

Yes, the $3 Fram filter sucks. So do all other $3 filters.

The only argument for not using synthetic is that it costs more (not very much, maybe about $15 more per oil change). Now people want me to conduct an "independent test using statistical analysis of actual data" and other such measures to guarantee that synthetic oil is actually beneficial. How much will that cost? Nobody seems to care about wasting money on such studies or proof.

I was always skeptical of synthetic oil, but when I switched from conventional oil after my first oil change on my 98 Camry V6 XLE, I noticed a difference right away in how much easier the engine revved with my foot on the gas peddle. Please don't tell me it had anything to do with the engine being new, I noticed the difference immediately after the switch to synthetic.

There are a bunch of other reasons why someone would want to use synthetic, such as the sludge problems reported on many Toyota V6 engines of that era. All race cars use synthetic oil. Many high end cars use them as factory fill (not just cars with exotic engines) and there have been studies that show that synthetic oil does reduce engine wear, although maybe not much on used NY taxis. Most engine wear occurs when the engine is not yet at operating temperature, which doesn't apply to NY taxis that are always warm relative to the miles they drive. Like many people, about half the trips I take are short distances when the engine is not fully warmed up.

All of these reasons, in conjunction with my own observations of improved engine performance and very slightly better gas mileage (1%), are good enough for me. I am convinced of the benefits.

But just in case I am totally and completely wrong, and have completely deluded myself in this matter, I am only out $30 per year (even if you don't count gas mileage savings). I loose that much every minute in my 401K. If I am right, then I probably have at least broken even and may have saved myself thousands of dollars. Others can do what they like.

The OP asked about the best motor oil, not the cheapest. He can determine whether the best is worth the extra money. I doubt that someone would ask such a question if they had a 3 year lease on a car and intended to get a new car when the lease expires.

BTW, Ray O uses synthetic oil in all three of cars, but he doesn't like to talk about that because synthetic is not specified by Toyota or Lexus for his vehicles.

$30 per year? That is one meal, a couple of drinks, tip and tax at a restaurant. People need to get some perspective in their lives.

Well said.

--Vic

The thing is, the cost argument is a very good argument. I change my oil every 3,000 miles, which works out to a little bit more often than once a month. This adds up to a substantial cost in the end.

I'm not sure why you should expect such a difference, but if it makes you feel better, that's fine.

The sludge problems on those Toyota V6es can be prevented with synthetic oils, it's true. But they can also be prevented by religiously done conventional oil changes every 3,000 miles.

I'm not. I use the synthetic oils anyway, because I figure that the cost of an engine is so high that the added few hundred dollars a year is worth it to me, and because I tend to drive cars until they have several hundred thousand miles on them. I'm not sure it really makes any difference in any of the engines I use, and if I happen to get a really good deal on conventional oil, I'll use it for a few weeks until the next change and I certainly don't see any short-term difference in doing so.

That's basically how I feel, although frankly I wish I were paying only $30 a year for oil. Hell, I pay more than $30 a year in gear oil for the transmission and differential which get done about annually.

--scott

So the truth begins to emerge, your problem is not synthetic oil or lack of documentation but Amsoil dealers and MLM type marketing.