Removing Tape Residue from Paint

Thought this was talked about recently on one of the forums. I have a newly repainted Avanti that had some masking tape left on it too long and I'm looking to safely remove the residue. Best method? I thought someone mentioned gasoline? The paint is well cured so It's not entirely delicate -but I don't want to damage the beautiful golden-sand paint in any way. Thanks in advance for everyones help. -Will

Reply to
S2BAKER
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I have used the citrus based cleaners with good results but perhaps I was just lucky? Maybe some one else knows if that is a safe method.

Reply to
Mike Williams

Reply to
John Poulos

Is it a cured acrylic urathane?,cured acrylic enamel?, or air dried laquer?if it is in fact a well cured paint just use a automotive wax and grease remover,the same stuff used to pre-clean the car prior to painting the body.then all you need to do after is re-glaze that area again,do'nt use wax,until I believe after the paint is cured about 90 days.just use a liquid glaze!

Reply to
63t-cab

Yep, what John said. It is available at most NAPA stores, Part #08984 in the quart can. Not cheap, but it WILL remove everything except the paint.

BTW, I just today paid MAACO $300 for a used car paint job on a white

1995 Corsica. Man, does it look good! How DO they do it? BP
Reply to
bobcaripalma

You will know when the paint starts to blow off as you drive down the road one day. LOL

mike hunt

Reply to
Mike Hunter

Latex Interior wallpaint w/ a fine nap roller?

I am a fan of bringing a prepped primered car to maaco for a cheapo paint job.

I got good results one time, too.

Mark (Prep is 90%) Dunning

Reply to
Mark Dunning

In 1963 I took my prepped '54 Willys Aero Ace two-door (bumpers off, damage patched, etc.) to the local Earl Scheib franchise. They had a weekend special paint job- $19.95 total. It was the same color as the base color though I had to give up the two-tone, baked on- good job too. Paul Johnson

Reply to
Paul Johnson

The only fault that I found with paint jobs from Schieb etc was that the finish was like an un-catylized paint (soft). The last time that I did this was back in 1975 so their formulations have likely changed.

If it's a car that you really care about, I would suggest that you buy catylized paint (single stage) and have someone spray it on. Generally, I have been able to find that service for $200-300 with the cost of the paint and supplies about the same. A durable $600 paint job these days is not a bad deal at all.

Also, I think the better service would come from MACCO...

JT

Reply to
Grumpy AuContraire

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