Exhaust studs - How to remove?

Jun 24, 2005 10 Replies

Hi Ramva!



I've been rebuilding my '70 bug's engine (1300cc SP mostly stock) and everything has been just perfect except for one thing. Some of the exhaust studs had some threads stripped, so I got new ones and removed them using the double nut technique and in a couple of them, vice grips. The problem is, one of the studs had no threads at all, It seems the nut was long gone and the J-Pipe stripped it. When using the vice grips the stud just broke leaving only about 5mm of it out of the head. Anyways it has no threads, and the vice grip has no grip at all. How can I remove the stud without removing the head? It seems like I'm cursed with stubborn nuts, bolts and studs. Remember the axle nut from hell on christmas 2003?



Thank you all for your help. Karls


Grind or file it smooth, drill out a small hole in the center of the stud, then use a screw extractor bit if you can. If you can't, drill out the entire stud, then drill an oversize hole and install a thread insert. Follow the instructions on the drill bit sizes to use and where to use thread locking compound. You can do it with the head in the car.

At least that was what I did once in the past. Techniques may have improved in the 20 years since then. :)

Slip a nut over the end of the stud and weld the nut to the stud. It doesn't matter that if there is a 5mm or so gap, a wire-feed welder will fill that right up. After it cools, it'll come right out but you will probably need to helicoil the hole.

Some folks like brass nuts on exhaust studs to prevent this problem. However I like to use stainless steel nuts on exhaust studs. I still use anti-seize compound with them and I've never had a set stick.

Tony

A problem we've all had from time to time Karls.

Good luck

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MUADIB®

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The Peacemaking Meeting scheduled for today has been cancelled due to a conflict.

Good God aren't you in a mood tonight LOL LOL LOL LOL !!!!

Susan S.

It's fairly easy: Weld an 8mm nut (13mm head) on the remaining stub, get it red hot and allow it to cool a little. Then turn the stud out with a normal wrench or whatever tool you like. The heat generated in the process should help loosen the stud too. If the nut snaps off, try again. You can try it dozens of times. Just be careful not to weld the aluminum around the stud. Weld won't stick to it, but it will melt it.

Jan

I split all my nuts (shot in front of open goal there :) because the first couple were a bear to loosen and didn't want to take the risk of what you had happen. As a replacement I intend to use brass - the dissimilar metal in contact with eachother may not be a good thing, but they'll split a whole lot easier.

My friend's used a similar trick -- he drilled a small hole (small enough not to compromise the stud, large enough not to break) in the middle of the stud, and then JB-welded in an allen key. Turned right off. Then again, it was not an exhaust stud and was on a BMW...

-Kevin

Helps to have a good sense of humor.............or at least a sense of humor.

I keep a spare one in my pocket, right next to my stubborn nuts.........

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MUADIB®

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The Peacemaking Meeting scheduled for today has been cancelled due to a conflict.

And we all know brass nuts don;t rust like steel ones do.

That open goal was nice............But splitting nuts.............I don't know about that............Splitting hairs.........now that's different.

OUCH!

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MUADIB®

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The Peacemaking Meeting scheduled for today has been cancelled due to a conflict.

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