>Any ideas?
...pressure switch inline between pump and switch, connectted to solenoid connected to pump. When you press the button on dash the pressure will drop and the switch will kick the solenoid triggering the pump.
...Gary
>Any ideas?
...pressure switch inline between pump and switch, connectted to solenoid connected to pump. When you press the button on dash the pressure will drop and the switch will kick the solenoid triggering the pump.
...Gary
Seems like that would work. Need to make sure it's a leak-proff system, though. So the pressure doesn't bleed off.
Can you think of a source for such a switch?
I can just here the future owner telling his friends what that nutty PO did!
I'd start with RV suppliers...look for replacement parts...or you may want top consider just getting a small sink pump w/built in regulator...of course if you want too get real tricky you can tap the wire to the pump motor from the pump switch send it to a relay and then to your wipers for that modern car auto wash feature. If you do a search for prtessure switches I'm sure you can prolly find a company that sells em though...
Gary
The washer tank on a '63 is pressurized. You don't have to have the spare tire. Just a touch from the air compressor and your reservoir is pressurized. The washer system on my '63 is like that and works well.
Dane
You can modify the stock wipper switch by cutting the end of the washer valve and screwing a miniature push-button switch (round metalic switch with a plastic black or red button, that you can find in every electonic supplies store). The rod of the center button of the wiper switch, will press the push-button. You may have to cut the rod to the correct length. Sorry, it is not possible to get a picture of it.
Bill, '67 bug.
? "Max" ?????? ??? ?????? news:1103_1063125875@max...
How much air to you put in? And how long does a "charge" last>
Max
"Max" wrote
Max, for what it's worth, my '72 calls for 42 psi.
-- Scott
I think it isn't so much the psi as it is the total volume of the air that can be compressed into the tank (along with the washer fluid).
What I'm getting at is that pressurizing the fluid tank is really just compressing whatever air is in the tank (as well as stretching the walls of the tank itself a bit). The washer fluid itself (mostly water) is essentialy incompressible. The more fluid is in the tank, the less compressible air there can be.
Suppose the tank is filled mostly with washer fluid and a little air. Not pressurize (to 42 psi). Not much air will be added to achieve 42 psi. The total relaxed volume of all the air in the tank determines how much fluid can be displaced (squirted) by allowing the compressed air to expand.
In the stock configuration, the volume of the spare tire is much more than adequate to evacuate the entire washer fluid tank.
PS: I probably will go with modifying the stock wiper switch to incorporate a momentary-on electrical switch in place of the valve. That will power an electric pump and allow the wiper switch to appear stock from the interior.
Buses have a elec pump washer, can you use the switch from that or is a column mount switch not an option?
Petrie
If you use a common electric store push button, see how much power it can handle. I don't know how much power a wiper water pump takes, but you might need to use a relay with a small switch like that.
The water pump I use draws less than 1 amp (about 0.7A). The push button handles this load just fine. If you want to be sure that the push-button will last long, you can solder an 0.1uF capacitor in parallel with it. It would be annoying to hear a relay clicking every time you press the button.
Bill, '67 bug.
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You must be pressing that quite a lot.
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