P6 value?

They can look good but still have horrors underneath, and are difficult to fix properly. First thing to check is if it can be jacked up using the car jack and original jacking points. Then the bottom of the D pillar - just from the outside by opening the rear doors. Rear upper suspension arm mounting points - accessible from inside the boot. Lift the carpets and check floor to sill junction, especially at ends.

Mechanically they're pretty strong. Check for leaks on the engine side cover - it's steel and can rust through. Also check for clonks from the final drive that aren't just gear backlash - the mountings for that can be expensive and difficult to get.

So I've heard. This does worry me a little, though I won't be losing out personally if there is a major problem. It's certainly one of those difficult cars that looks tidy enough to warrant a pretty decent price, but could just as easily need a full restoration.

Thanks for the check list, that's my job for this evening then.

Water leaks you mean? It's had a new water pump recently. The chap says the water refuses to stay any higher than 3/4 full, which I thought sounded like a leaking radiator cap preventing it pressurising properly, but perhaps there is a leak.

I'll be driving it home this evening, so will listen out for anything untoward. It's only done a seemingly genuine 88,000 miles with 3 previous owners, so I'm optimistic that it'll be OK mechanically.

Ta, Dave.

Dave Plowman (News) ( snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

D-pillar? They don't HAVE a D pillar - unless you're thinking of one of the (two or three?) estate P6s...

Yes they do!

A = Front door hinge pillar. B = Front door catch pillar. C = Rear door hinge pillar. D = Rear door catch pillar. E = (normally) Tailgate pillar.

B&C are often referred to as the 'B' post but that is technically incorrect.

:::Jerry:::: ( snipped-for-privacy@privacy.INVALID) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

First time I've ever heard the "pillar between the front and rear doors" referred to as two separate pillars.

If you ask, I'd hazard a guess that 99% of people (or at least those who don't look at you "gone out"...) would say that the C pillar is the rear door catch pillar and the D pillar the tailgate pillar.

like they

Think about it, what would you call the each pillar (front catch and rear hinge) of a long wheel base limo (or 'crew cab' vehicle), when there could be many inches and panel work between each pillar?

The confusion exists because most vehicles have a combined B & C pillar pressing.

those who

Yes. 99 percent of those who don't work in the vehicle bodywork industry don't know what they are talking about most of the time! :~P

WRONG.

£1200? You're having a giraffe.

Important things.

1) Does the timing chain rattle? 2) Does the handbrake work on both sides?

And I guess by "Mexico" brown you mean that dogshit brown colour?

Nah, it's the most practical model of a cracking car. The 2200TC is only slightly more powerful, but never tax exempt. The V8 is too heavy on fuel for everyday use. The SC is a bit slow, so the 2000TC is the one to go for. Price guides say 2600 for Condition 1 and 250 for a basket case, so 1200 for a useable, MOT'd and regularly used one seemed sensible to me.

I'll tell you tomorrow. It didn't when I helped the fellow change the oil a few months back.

MOT until October, so it's been working fairly recently.

No, I know the shade you're thinking of. This is the darker, chocolate brown colour. It actually suits these cars well.

Yes, you are.

You really are a ignorant little f*cktard.

I spent a very instructive hour or so up at Red Hat Rovers (near Huntingdon, and local to me). He very kindly took me round the best places to look for rot in a P6 - the ones in his spares collection are a REAL education. Best single piece of advice is to pop out a rear seat cushion - though they are a little bit of a sod to get back, you sort of have to bend them up a little in the middle to spring them back in. Underneath, by the door there is a sort of well and a favourite rot spot. If there is daylight here, then expect more repairs to the well hidden base unit.

Round about condition 2 price. It's not some recent banger, but a 30 odd year old car. And a nice one to drive - quite capable of keeping up with modern traffic.

Neither is difficult to fix.

Replacing a timing chain is no more difficult than the belt on many modern cars. Only very early cars with Dunlop brakes are difficult to get spares for. And I don't think any TC used those. The handbrake mechanism inside the calipers on the Girling system usually responds to just cleaning if seized. And when working properly gives the best handbrake you'll find anywhere.

Yes - it's a cover for the water jacket and notorious for perforating. Could be they have been re-manufactured by now - I've not had a P6 for many a year.

Jerry's version is what I was taught many many years ago by the extremely skilled panel beater that worked in the same garage as my father.

And the genuine Leyland WS manual for my SD1 names the one between the doors as a B-C post, so I'd guess the earlier P6 will be the same.

So there. ;-)

In news:44636802$0$16300$ snipped-for-privacy@authen.yellow.readfreenews.net, :::Jerry:::: waffled on in a semi-interesting fashion, it went something like this;

In the head, probably, in this case he's right.

A = front door hinge post B = rear door hinge post (also front door catch post) C = rear door catch post D = tailgate post.

Mainly because of the shape of them, or at least that's how I remember the buggers.

that was the problem I had with my 2000.

Doesn't agree with my SD1 WS manual.

The Dunlop brakes were near impossible to get spares - like piston assemblies - 30 years ago, and very expensive if you could. Most will have been converted, I'd guess.