I have just cleaned up my rusty chain with muriatic acid (swimming pool acid) and it's nice and shiney bright now. Any suggestions on what to treat it with to keep the rust from coming back? I tried WD40 but that don't work. Wonder if some type of chemical rust remover/convert would work? Your wisdom please. Thanks Gus Hrncir Houston, Texas
Chain treatment
Nov 18, 2004
10 Replies
Hi Gus,
WD40 is a penetrant that absorbs water. Try one of these water repellant lubricant/protectants instead:
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Steve
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hrncir wrote:
I use a product called Break Free CPL first came in contact with it back in the late 70s used in a marine environment not even the brass turned green. I was developed to protect military weapon systems from corrosion.
HarryS
hrncir proclaimed:
There is nothing that will prevent it unless you coat it with an epoxy or similar and then never use again. The normal wear and tear will expose new iron to a soggy atmosphere and viola, rust. Happens to brake rotors and is as harmless, if somewhat unsightly.
For best anti-rust: take it to a 'galvinizing' shop .... they will blast it and then hot dip the chain in molten zinc. This is not going to be cheap and if the chain is not HT Proof, BBB, or HT chain, the value of the chain isnt worth it.
For short term rust prevention, boil the chain in hot water for approx. an hour. If you add a bit of phosphoric acid (coke or pepsi contains phosphoric) the reaction will be faster. Just boil the chain until it turns black or dark in color. Other rust reducers such as 'Naval Jelly' or "Ospho" will also do the trick. What you are doing with this method is 'blueing' the chain .... converting the rust from ferric oxide to ferrous oxide ..... ferrous oxide is the 'good' rust that helps prevent further rust (of the ferric variety).
Coating the chain with paint or epoxy or vinyl, etc. is the WORST thing to do as 'when' you break the coating the ferric rust will be enhanced by any water that gets 'under' the coating.
The simplest rust preventer is to simply boil the chain in hot water until it turns black/dark (with a can of coke or pepsi added to the mix).... works on rust prone tools and parts too.
You really shouldnt use acids (other than phosphoric) to clean the cha> hrncir proclaimed:
I got some cold galvanizing spray that is pretty good so far. In 99 I used it on all the washers I needed as spacers to set my fiberglass body on nice and straight. Not one washer is showing any sign of rust.
The stuff is also supposed to be sacrificial so even if a wear spot occurs it is supposed to protect it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sRich Hampel wrote:
WD40 doesn't absorb water, it displaces water. But it doesn't have substantial adherant properties...it just evaporates away and leaves a weak, thin film. Not the best for rustproofing or lubrication.
Hi Matt,
You're right, it does displace water on contact, but after it dries, especially in crevices or covered areas, I've seen it apparently absorb humidity and rust faster than bare metal.
Steve
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Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
Bare low-carbon steel chain is hopeless for rust. The only way you can keep your chain reasonably nice looking is to buy a quality galvanized chain like marine anchor chain. I have a 30 ft piece of 3/8 High-Test chain that looks great after 5 years anchoring my SeaRay in salt water and then 15 years of sporadic 4x4 use like dragging logs and stumps. OTH I have always washed it off with fresh water and let it dry well before storing in my emergency bag.
If you are truly anal you can also find stainless chain.
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Look in the Anchor and Docking section. Quality chain costs $$$.
John
John Davies TLCA 14732
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'96 Lexus LX450 '00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro Spokane WA USA
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