freelander steaming

You've been there too long!

thanks for your input

it was worthless

but thanks

you re-inforce the stereotypes ..

i can go to bed knowing England hasn't changed

by the way i left in 1986 and fly the the flag that is why i drive a landrover.....

drew

Just start from basics. You've got a coolant leak from somewhere, as the smell of antifreeze indicates. It could be blowing past the radiator cap if the system's being pressurised by a blown head gasket, or it could be a split hose or faulty hose connection. You could have a leaking core plug. The only way to check is to have a thorough look round the engine bay & check for visible leaks. You may see staining by the leak, if it's severe enough or been there long enough If there are no leaks visible in the engine bay, it could be the heater matrix, which would also put the smell of antifreeze strongly in the driver's area. However, if you have electric fans & they're running all the time, it's either a defective temperature sensor switch or controller, or the engine is running too hot all the time.

Sorry I can't be of more help, but my vehicle's a tad older than yours, so I know little of the modern systems except on commercial vehicles.

Tciao for Now!

John. '68 Series IIa in Stoke-on-trent.

Sense of humour's gone too! You need a holiday in England for a recharge ;-)

In message , Drew writes

"It's a Freelander, they all do that sir."

Well, especially the K type engines with the coolant pressure relief built into the head gasket

AWEM

Hey, lighten up.

You were supposed to find it amusing..

In message , Drew writes

I think it could be suffering from a lack of punctuation !

Hi, If it's the Petrol 'K' series engine, then it's a common problem. Mine (also 2002) started to show a little steam this year (99,000 miles) in a traffic jam on a motorway - temperature guage wasn't excessive and nothing too obvious at first under the bonnet. Because it's a petrol Freelander - I already had a replacement head gasket set, but get the 'upgraded' composite gasket with steel shim and replacement head bolts. Also worth getting the coolant thermostat conversion kit if not already fitted (or a new thermostat). Also timing belt at the same time.

I found two minor leaks - one from the plastic induction manifold on a corner where it fixes to the head and the other was from a coolant gap around a cylinder and leading outwards. No obvious sign of oil and coolant mixing or any further damage.

If you do the job yourself, make sure the crankshaft isn't turned with the head removed as the steel cylinder liners 'float' in the aluminium block. The headbolts (fit new ones) go all the way through the head and block and screw into a plate in the sump and 'sandwich' the engine together

- correct torque is important. Also correct purging of any air from the cooling system is important to avoid hot spots and the same problem rapidly re-occuring.

Make sure the radiator is flushed and fit a new one if in any doubt. Anti-freeze should be appropriate for an engine containing aluminium and steel.

As far as I'm aware, one fan is for the engine coolant, the other is for the air con system.

Hopefully I'll get another 50,000 miles out of it before anything major...

Daniel

(Cheshire)

I was 9....

-- "For those who are missing Blair - aim more carefully."

To reply direct rot13 me

bURRt the 101 Camper

On or around Sun, 05 Aug 2007 22:50:39 +0100, Simon Isaacs enlightened us thusly:

Yoofer.

I was 20