swivel pin servicing

Mar 26, 2008 5 Replies

If you can lift the vehicle to a comfortable working height or you don't mind working on your knees and providing the finish on the chrome/teflon housing is good and the oil seal is in usable condition it's usually preferable to leave the housing attached to the axle. AFAIR the ABS fitted swivels have a bushed hollow pin at the top with needle roller thrusts which can wear quite rapidly if starved of oil, and all the parts will need replacing including the bottom bearing which takes all the weight. If you remove the full axle end you can work on the bench in better conditions but with more work to do.

Martin

Hi My mate has a 300Tdi Disco' fitted with ABS. Does anyone have any opinions on servicing the awivel pins either on or off the vehicle ? Is it possible to service them in place ?



Any help greatly appreciated



Dave Everything you thought you knew is probably wrong


On or around Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:07:12 -0000, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

I thought the ABS ones had a railco bush at the top? Non-ABS ones are taper-roller top and bottom, and the railco has a much bigger pin which is I assume why they used it for the ABS, as it can be drilled without getting too weak.

HBOL shows a mixture of pictures as you'd expect and silly comments like "ABS version similar", but it does refer to "top bush" rather than "bearing seat", and the sectional view shows 2 different arrangements, ABS with a bush and non-ABS with taper roller top and bottom.

If so, you need the housing off to push the holder out and push the new one in.

No, it's a steel backed brass or bronze bush and instead of having the railko type material for a thrust pad it has a washer like cage with radially arranged needle rollers with a hardened steel thrust washer either side with the ABS sensor through the middle.

Martin

Non-ABS ones are

On or around Thu, 27 Mar 2008 23:02:10 -0000, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

Ah, OK. but I bet it's the same as a Railco to fit :-) I've done taper roller swivel bearings in situ, I'd not fancy trying to do the bush housing on the top of the 110's axle (early one with railcos) in situ.

"Austin Shackles" wrote............

Yes, but I can't remember if the top diameter is reduced slightly on one side to miss the outer housing like the Railko is.

I've done taper

It's okay with hydraulic clamp and an bar and sleeve to support from underneath.

A tip for 110" Railko's, One day I couldn't obtain a top bush for a 110" but I had a couple of new Series Railko's. It takes only a couple of minutes to turn off the bottom of the replaceable housing and you can easily press out the actual non-ferrous bush without damage then fit it in the housing of the 110" bush after breaking out the old material. They are the same size bush and the price difference between a complete Series variety and a 110" used to be about £26.00, the Series being the cheaper (about £7.00 as opposed to about £33.00). Don't know if that still applies but it could do. :-)

Martin

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