All been bled properly, Green stuff pads, normal disks for now. Normal break fluid, although, i have no idea what dot 5.1 is
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20 years ago
All been bled properly, Green stuff pads, normal disks for now. Normal break fluid, although, i have no idea what dot 5.1 is
AWOGA AWOGA
Theres ya problem!!
What car IS this?
Yes, indeedy!
Pug 406 1.9tdi
So not ridiculously light. Green stuff are crap on anything over 800KG's
Gawd - what do you know about cars ;)
FWIW - green stuff work fine on my 405 - thats 1050kg. They are a lot better than the standard ones - and i'm sure Nom will be along shortly to say they were good on his 405 too - which was a better model than mine :)
Very easy. Buy a set from a breakers yard, and bolt em on.
Eh ?
Why are you asking the question then ?
They won't be particularly expensive from a breakers. Find a rear-ended coupe.
Leave the backs well alone. There is zero point in uprating them.
And there sir, is your problem.
Green Stuff are *NOT* suitable for heavy cars, like your lardy 406 Diesel.
You should be running Red Stuff. Change em.
Matts right, they're totally unsuitable for a lardy 406 Derv.
He should be running Red Stuff.
Cant get red stuff for my car :(
And do the fluid whilst you're at it. Dot 5.1 is basically better fluid - it'll resist boiling a lot better compared to normal dot 4 (fluid boiling is often the cause of 'fade' as many peope overlook it, as i once did). DONT use dot 5 though! You're brake system will not like it!!!!
Could be 6 pots on the front, and 4's on the rear. Quite feasable. The Coupe is (or has the option of) a 3 litre V6.
Nah, its 4 pots up front, i'm looking at a diagram of them right now on the Pug parts catalogue
So what are the black stuff ones i have then!?
-- Chet
Normal EBC spec pads. Their fine. Just the Green Stuff that are s**te, Red stuff that are nearly as bad and Yellow stuff that don't work, then work the rapidly don't work again.
Matt
You can! Just find out what calipers it uses and order some for a car that uses the same caliper. TBH prob best just to forget the EBC stuff. I've tried about every pad compound going and you really can't go wrong with the Mintex stuff, 1144's for road and 1155's for track.
Matt
I dont get it...
Why do you all go out and buy little piddly womens grocery getters with TINY (looks like the came off a moped) disks and then expect it to stop? One look before you buy will make you laugh...
If you wanted a car that went / stopped properly then you would have bought something that does that right?
What am I missing here...
Faster "better" cars cost more because they do all this stuff from the start. Thats WHY the cost more. Almost everything in the build is different from the shape of the floorplan, the wheels that "driive" the car, the gear ratios, the suspension, the brakes etc are ALL fitted with better/bigger/stiffer/more expensive bits. Because you are basically throwing good money at something that will inevitably be worth less!
The only time it makes sense to upgrade these buits rather than swap for a more "complete" car, is when you already have the fastest most highest spec version and you dont want to swap for something BMW etc...
Or if you are building something serious to race, or from shell up from scratch...
And don't give me that insurance malarkey! If you tell them its modified it costs MORE than a better faster model...
It's Brembo four-pots front, and standard rears. This only applies to the V6 Coupe - all the others (including the V6 saloon !) have the standard stoppers.
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