Factory R2 Quest - Over!

You do know that the block that is in the car is exactly what you're looking for, right? Or do you want to rebuild an R-motor at the same time that you're still able to drive the car?

nate

Studebaker-r2-4-me wrote:

Looks like a real nice GT Hawk... It's provenance almost makes it worthy of a 'correct' restoration... If you can get past that point, making it a high end, full option clone would be neat... Think of it...That is the most refined version of a road car that Studebaker ever built. Jeff

The valve covers are just standard late model valve covers that are chrome plated, so I wouldn't worry about those until you have everything else together. The ones you have are functionally identical and if not rusted are probably easier to chrome than pitted chrome ones. The hard parts to find will be:

2) fuel pump - just keep an eye out for this at swap meets. You can tell an original R-series fuel pump because it's larger in diameter than the standard pump, and it has six screws holding the valve body to the main body. The repros have eight screws and work well but I get the impression you want an original-style clone.

4) vibration damper - just have to search swap meets for this one, again. You will need the one with the belt groove in it, although if you find one without, Dave Thibeault can modify it for you (again, for a price...)

So basically I agree with Nimesh's advice, I was just trying to hit the high points of what the differences are if you end up having to piece an engine together. If you do find a core engine, make sure it is from a Lark or Hawk, that will make your life much easier as you will have most of the parts you need on it and won't have to do so much parts trading to make it work.

good luck,

nate

Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.com wrote:

BTW, I just got a fake second chance offer on that very car. I have a a bare R1 block that will need a bore for $300 (JT1444)

Also rebuilt R2 engine (Avanti R2 RS number) Long block $3000, or long block with R2 pan, carb, distributor and damper $4000 or with Lark/Hawk rebuilt blower mounted, ready to install $5500 with factory blower mounts, but less air cleaner, and chrome valve covers. I can help with the R2 gas tank and motor mount issues too.

N8 might recall the guy that does the wood overlays. I sell a full carpet kit with the door panel carpet for $310. Ernie Loga sells the cardboard to redo your panels.

Studebaker-r2-4-me wrote:

If the Avanti engine is available for a good price you might as well go ahead and buy it, just be aware that you will have to swap all the stuff on the front of the engine - damper, water manifold, blower bracket, alternator bracket, etc. The Hawk R2 alternator bracket is still available NOS from SASCO as far as I know. I believe the carb hats are different as well. It all boils down to how good a deal you are getting.

good luck,

nate

Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.com wrote:

The guy's name is Jim Kranak from WV - his wood overlays are not an exact repro of stock, they are actually quite a bit nicer looking. The other option is to strip the dash yourself and use vinyl "fake wood" which will look closer to stock. I think it is a 3M product.

good luck

nate

John Poulos wrote:

OK, but a block is not a engine. It's those little added bits that add to the expense. Nimesh spent $5K on the rebuilding the engine in the famous "secret serial" Black GT that I'm doing and he had the correct engine. Before you get too far into the project, run the numbers on building your car. You may end up with more money building a clone then a factory car car would cost. I'd bet I'll have 2 or 3 more on ebay by the spring of 08.

Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.com wrote:

Be careful, that's a Avanti R2 setup, much easier to find, but is not what you want for a Lark/Hawk. The $7100 price is fine, since you could sell the rest of the driveline for a $1000 or so and come out fine if it was a Lark/Hawk driveline.

I'll have a very rough factory R2 GT > Thanks I found a Avanti R2 Drive train for sale on the Studebakerswap. Its a

JP/Maryland Studebaker On the Net

OK, take this suggestion for what it's worth, and don't let us confuse you. Here's what I would do in your place. Get that pretty 64, do the wood grain, carpets and the rest and enjoy the car until closer to your 2008 clone deadline. If another factory car shows up that you like, I'm certain that the correct, near show 64 would bring 14-15K. If you spent the 6-8 more to build a clone out of your now 15K factory car, you could have the 'real deal" for about the same money and saved the stock 64. i.e., like this R2 4 speed car that I sold a few weeks back:

Other > My Factory R2 Quest is Over. I have purchased a 1964 GT Hawk to build into a

It is great to see young people into Studebakers and I love the "R" talk! Congratulations on a very pretty 64 GT!!!!!!!!

John Poulos wrote:

Allen,

That engine looks pretty nasty for 7K. I would think long and hard about paying more than $3,000.00 for it and would probably pass on it for that much.

Michael Float

Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.com wrote:

Allen, that is a sweetheart of a car. You really scored with that one at that price. Get in that car and drive it! You'll fall in love with it the way it is. I like JP's logic. It takes a lot to build up a clone and this one is so sweet the way it is I'd think twice about changing it. You're car, you do what you want, but consider that in order to complete the job, you'll need different springs, rear traction bars, rear stabilizer bar, 160 mph speedometer and redline tach, besides all the engine and fuel associated stuff that has already been mentioned. A lot of those under-hood bits are specific to the Hawk and are quite hard to find. I know, I just did it. Some of the repo and substitute stuff, just doesn't work like it should and needs a lot of tinkering. I admire your enthusiasm and sincerely hope you will have fun with the project however you choose to do it. Tim K. '64 R2 GT

Michael - Roseland FL wrote:

I seem to remember that on my old Avanti R1, the fuel return line was