2.25 in a 110 station wagon

I used to have one of these very vehicles...

Not actually that slow or gutless, managed to cruise(!) at 80 with 7.50 deestones..

OK round the lanes.

Quite impressed really. (extra) Things to watch for. if its that early, it may still be swicthable 2/4wd (there were a few) if the guage is reading hot, may well be the voltage reg.

otherwise, I bashed it round for 2 years with no problems..

On or around Fri, 09 Jan 2004 10:07:43 +0000, Mother enlightened us thusly:

wouldn't have thought it would be that hard. You could always get one of those powerstroke 2.8s and flog the 200 TDi to Tim to go in his new toy.

I was commenting specifically on putting a V8 into a series 3. I helped a lad do it with standard bellhousing, despite my advice not to, and there was precious little room for axle movement, that 2" shorter bellhousing makes the difference, I never did get to drive it . I suspect there was sufficient flexing in the engine mounts for a slow shunt to put the fan straight through the rad.

AJH

Oh, sorry - totally misread that :-)

The only ones I've seen were actually not what I was talking about, i.e., they'd extended the front (which I don't want to do) to look more like a 90/110.

Martyn

On or around Fri, 09 Jan 2004 21:13:10 +0000, snipped-for-privacy@dtn.invalid enlightened us thusly:

mind, the OP was asking about V8-into-110...

On mine, the rad has a large frame than the core, by about 1/2" or maybe a tad more. Accordingly, there's a gap behind the core at the bottom before you get to the edge of the frame and at a couple of points are extra clips which should hold a fan cowling sort of like this.

CORE CORE CORE CORE || CORE| ¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ Now I fitted a spare viscous fan blade set from a ford to the viscous hub that came on the engine. This fan, once all was assembled, was about an inch astern of the rad frame, and thus well clear of the rad, but it sits slightly low. However, no obvious way for it to hit anything. Initial tests showed that the blades, under some conditions, hit the clips where the rad cowling was meant to go. So I cut about 1cm off each blade, so that they wouldn't reach.

However, while playing off-road, I find that under certain conditions, the fan blades managed to hit the bottom of the rad frame. How, I don't know - there's no way the engine mountings will let the whole transmission move by about an inch forwards, and in any case, can't see why it would move forwards. There's also no obvious way for the rad to move backwards that far - the bottom of the rad is in brackets on the chassis, and I reckon an inch of movement in the chassis would be obvious in other ways. But somehow, the fan blades have been catching. It seems to happen when the vehicle is in an unlikely attitude, or on rough ground.

Anyone got any thoughts?

Are you taking into account the fact that the blades will bend under the aerodynamic load? And bend even more if you ask them to move water? (Some model Subarus have the reputation for carving a circle out of the radiator if you dribe into even a few inches of water). Another point - are you aware of the engine tie rod fitted to some series Landrovers (comes with the eight blade fan kit for example). Something like this might be useful. JD

On or around Sat, 10 Jan 2004 17:11:45 +1100, JD enlightened us thusly:

I wondered about aerodynamics. But it's odd that it doesn't do it at high revs on the flat.

I can't believe the chassis moves that much without it being obvious in some other way. Nor can I see anything else (the engine mountings are pretty solid, and simple twisting of the engine on its mountings won't do it, the engine has to move nearer the rad somehow. It's in the nature of the problem that it can't be directly observed, of course, so have to rely on guesswork. I think I might do a bit more surgery on the fan blades, and have a look at a RR fan to see what it looks like.

The chassis *does* flex, (I suspect they may all do so) in that if you park it somewhere silly, the back door doesn't shut properly. However, that's much more likely to be the back body and it's associated frames being rusty.

There's no evidence of major chassis problems on the front end of the chassis at least, the rear crossmember isn't anything special.

I know but Lee was (tongue in cheek perhaps) suggesting the V8 int series 3 conversion, I was warning of a difficulty with the standard LT95 bellhousing which could be got around with 101 bits. Also, as you will see with the stage 1 the rad really needs moving forward, which changes the look of a series 3.

Plastic blades flex a lot when moving a large mass of air, a bit like a helicopter rotor as it begins to lift, they flex a lot more when moving a mass of water.

Ah I just see JD has posted much the same idea.

AJH

On or around Sat, 10 Jan 2004 10:36:04 +0000, snipped-for-privacy@dtn.invalid enlightened us thusly:

and I've replied... 's odd. What I need is to take the bonnet off, and station someone on the front to look at it while I drive off-road to where it makes a noise, then they can tell me why it's doing it...

What latency on usenet or the fan problem?

I suppose a mirror on the wing mount angled into the engine bay, once the bonnet is off, would be practical.

It may well be that your are under estimating the kinetic loads of the engine on its mounts.

AJH

On or around Sat, 10 Jan 2004 14:43:03 +0000, snipped-for-privacy@dtn.invalid enlightened us thusly:

maybe, but I've not met anything that moves the engine forwards. Normally, they just twist. I think I'll try a bit more surgery on the fan blades - there's a convenient mark on them where they need cutting now :-)

I got a P6 V8 and standard LT95 into my old Lwt without moving the front panel forward. The P6 has a shorter water pump 'snout' and pulley then the SD1/etc. There was just about enough space to fit a new PAS belt by sliding it between the front crossmember and pulley. And at the back there was about a half-inch between the handbrake drum and the crossmember. The shoes could be changed by levering the gearbox down a fraction and sliding the drum backwards. The rear prop was almost inline. The front prop I found ate the UJs if I used series ones. RR yokes were better able to take the punishment.

And BigBlue has an SD1 in a Series 3 body without moving the front forward.... much. :-)

Beth