Worn dampers

30 years ago it wasn't uncommon to replace your dampers at 30-40k miles to remedy soggy handling. It doesn't seem to happen now and cars are doing 150-200k miles on the original dampers.

Does anyone here think we should we should return to the practice of replacing them at say 80-100k miles?

Reply to
Paul Giverin
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Not if they are working within their intended parameters.

Many items that used to get replaced several times over the life of a car now outlast its useful life. Things like rear brake shoes, suspension components, water pumps, alternators, etc all have a *much* longer average life than in the not too distant past.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

And how do you define "intended parameters"? I've done over 100k miles in my current car and I know its a fair bit soggier that it was when new but if I'd only bought it second hand with 100k on the clock, I wouldn't necessarily know if it was working within its intended parameters.

Yes but I would say that dampers are a bit like brake pads and clutches in that they do deteriorate over a period of time. Components are lasting longer but so are cars and they are doing much higher mileages. Clutches might be lasting 150-200k in some cases but they probably won't be performing like new. The same can be said of shocks but the effect of worn shocks on a cars handling is worse than that of a worn clutch from a safety pov.

Reply to
Paul Giverin

A lot of these dampers are now much much heaver duty than the old types. As well more expensive to replace as they have become part of the suspension with different design features.

The biggest problems of the old types was a leaking seal, hence loosing the damping oil.

Reply to
Rob

Only if performing below optimum. And I don't believe the ads that these things deteriorate gradually so you don't notice. I would, and I'd guess most even vaguely aware drivers would too.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

From the point of view of clutches it's irrelevant how much spare torque capacity it's got, they behave the same until they slip.

Reply to
Duncan Wood
[...]

If you are aware that the vehicle's handling has deteriorated, then the dampers are clearly not working within normal parameters. If you bought a second hand car with 100k on it, the dampers might all be new.

The MOT will pick up any seriously compromised dampers.

Sorry, but I disagree with your comparison. I've seen brake pads with a paper-thin layer of friction material pass an MOT; until there is no material at all, the brake will still work. Likewise, a clutch either slips or it doesn't.

It would be impossible to define an arbitrary point at which a damper should be changed, whether that was age or mileage, because conditions of use are far more significant to its wear rate.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Also higher proportion of motorway, i.e. smooth and bend free, driving.

Reply to
newshound

+0000, Paul Giverin wrote: > >> 30 years ago it wasn't uncommon to replace= your dampers at 30-40k miles >> to remedy soggy handling. It doesn't seem = to happen now and cars are >> doing 150-200k miles on the original dampers.= >> >> Does anyone here think we should we should return to the practice of= >> replacing them at say 80-100k miles? > > Not if they are working within= their intended parameters. > > Many items that used to get replaced severa= l times over the life of a car > now outlast its useful life. Things like r= ear brake shoes, suspension > components, water pumps, alternators, etc all= have a *much* longer > average life than in the not too distant past. > > = Chris > A lot of these dampers are now much much heaver duty than the old t= ypes. As well more expensive to replace as they have become part of the sus= pension with different design features. The biggest problems of the old typ= es was a leaking seal, hence loosing the damping oil.

It must now cost KwikFit and National Tyres a fortune in WD40.=20

Reply to
Stephen Leak

I replaced the rear shocks on my Volvo at about 200k - I could feel one side bouncing more than the other, and more noise from that side going over bumps. On removing the old ones, it was obvious that it had leaked some fluid. Big improvement in ride and noise afterwards.

I then did the front shocks about 6 months later when I had the front suspension apart to swap out some swivel joints. No change in ride this time, just the rattle noise from the worn swivel joints had gone.

I replaced the clutch at 160k when I had the gearbox off to swap it as

3rd had been damaged by the previous owner somehow (grand prix style gear changes I think, jumped out of 3rd occasionally). Bought the replacement clutch kit in advance as I figured I may as well replace it while apart. The old clutch that came out was in excellent condition - I would have been happy to re-fit if it wasn't for a brand new one already purchased!

s/h gearbox (£100 from ebay) of unknown mileage still going strong 70k later. Car now on 232k miles. (And still on it's original wheel bearings, battery, exhaust etc!)

Reply to
AlanD

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