can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Knock sensor does not detect mechanical knock. It only detects the frequency of ignition knock or pinging. This will usually happen at high load and moderate rpm, if it happens at idle then it would be pinging at all loads and speeds.

A mechanical knock that only happens when warm is usually bad news. Check oil level and dig out the receipts for oil changes. Sounds like it's going to be a big end. Rev engine in neutral to about 2.5K and then take foot off throttle, if it knocks as it slows down on the overrun then it's almost 100% certain to be big end(s). Main bearings rumble as they all help each other. Tappets will rattle when cold before they rattle warm. Cams like mains all the journals help support the shaft so they won't knock as such. But it could just be something lose like a heat shield or engine mount.

Reply to
Peter Hill
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Could be a lot of things, from a hydraulic lifter that isn't pumping up, to piston slap or a loose wristpin. It could even be one of the pumps driven off the serpentine belt making noise.

It is almost impossible to diagnose a rattling or knocking engine noise like that without actually hearing it. I would have the dealer diagnose it.

Reply to
John S.

I posted before about my SES light going on and then off again, my mechanic scanned the code and said that the P0420 code was in meory (I had this code before but had the TSB performed) which was teh computer update and it fixed it but now it's back again... what should I do? the light is still off but if it comes back on again, bring it to nissan? wil they try and update the software again, or is my Cat actually need to be replaced?

Reply to
Dr. Nick

probably needs a new cat, cat's are covered for 8 years or 80k miles

Reply to
NissTech

If it was rod bearings you hear a rattle on revving the engine. Doubt it's mains either. Could be piston slap -- lifters. You should have a qualified mechanic listen to it.

Reply to
TWW

It's actually pretty easy. With the window partially down, remove the door panel, disconnect the wiring harnesses to the switches and light, remove the nuts that hold the regulator and drive unit to the door and the nuts that hold the glass to the regulator. Pull the window glass all the way up and secure it w/ a piece of duct tape. Take the regulator out through the opening. Disassemble the drive unit from the bad regulator and install on the new regulator. Put the new assembly back in through the opening and secure with the nuts. Don't tighten the nuts just yet. Lower the glass into the holder and secure with nuts. Reconnect the window master switch temporarily and run the window up and down, checking the alignment. After you're satisfied with the glass alignment, tighten everything down and reassemble the door panel and everything else. This shouldn't take more than 1 1/2 hours. If you're windows have after-market tint film on the inside, be careful not to scratch it when putting the regulator assembly back into the door cavity. The duct tape needs to hold the glass up and out of the way while doing this. This repair looks harder than it actually is. Just take your time and find all the fasteners before prying things loose.

Chris

90 & 94 GXE's
Reply to
Chris H

I've heard mix reviews about the gearbox on these Maximas. Some say notchy some say smooth. Is there anyone out there who has test driven a manual Maxima or has one?

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
traderfjp

Thanks a lot for your input. I was actually able to get it done myself just by "wingin'" it. Probably saved me a good $150-200 in labor! If only all repairs were that "easy." :)

Reply to
Crunch Hardtack

If anything, the aftermarket ECU will make the car run leaner than stock, since Nissan's tend to run rich anyhow, and running rich kills mpg AND power.

45 hp is not likey the increase from all these mods, but I wouldn't treat it as a deal killer either.

CD

Reply to
Codifus

I haven't driven a 2002 but I have driven a 2005 manual. The throw seems a bit long to me. The shift from 1st to 2nd can be tricky although I think it would have gotten better with more practice. The clutch travel also seemed a bit long to me. The car certainly is quick with a standard though. I wound up getting the auto as my wife doesn't do a manual tranny. I haven't driven a vehicle with an auto trans since 1974 but I am getting to like the auto with manual shift. I am also getting old ;-)

Reply to
nobody

If it's any help, the 2002+ Maximas 6 speed manuals all have a cable connected shifter, whereas the 2001 and below 5 speed manual maximas were rod connected. Rod shifters tend to be notchier, and cable shifters can be a bit vague.

CD

Reply to
Codifus

I had the Kumho ECTSA 712s. I loved them. They were quiet, gripped nicely and ran very well in the rain.

Weakness? When the weather got cold, their grip characteristics abruptly changed. It was quite freaky. But then again, they are a summer tire:)

CD

Reply to
Codifus

I have an 02 6 speed and agree with this. In the beginning it seemed a bit vague. For example, every now and then I had trouble finding 2nd - after having driven manuals for 22 years - but its a matter of getting used to it. Like the car as a whole, its not great but its OK.

Reply to
John

This sounds interesting. I was reading you can choose between shifting the car or driving it as an automatic. The one review I read said that even though the car was in manual mode it still shifted up and down and it saw fit. Can you elaborate more on how this works and if you like it. Thanks

Reply to
traderfjp

Will I be dissapointed with the manual? Once you get use to it does it work without any effort? I'm torn between the manul and the Auto. The manual would win hands down but I'm a bit nervous that it may be a chore to get this car in gear. Please elaborate. Thanks

Reply to
traderfjp

I replaced my rear breaks on 1998 Maxima GLE. The right side makes very loud squeaking noise when I take off, after the cars has been parked for a while. The squeaking noise goes away after about 200 feet. I took it apart and it seems as the pad is rubbing against the disk, or the pad is not retracting back enough. Help?! Thanks

Reply to
Nikolai

Anyone know? Thanks

Reply to
bungalow_steve

Yes. When the 02s first came out, some people were trading down their silver tailights for the black SE tailights from the 00 and 01s. Those SE tails were probably the best looking from that body style IMHO.

CD

Reply to
Codifus

It's not supposed to retract. Did you use OEM pads? Cheap pads will squeel.

Reply to
JimV

Reply to
Dr. Nick

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