can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Steve you may be right. The 350ZX has more HP then a Maxima (same Engine) but it's tuned differently so there are things you can do that aren't radical which will improve HP............The aftermarket ECU could really kill MPG too if it's set to make the car run rich.

I don't imagine you can judge an A/C system in mild weather, since low limit thermostat or other sensors for coolant may limit how much the compressor runs.

I have had a 95 SE since May 94, and it still works fine. However, most of the paint colors, except white or sand (gold), were very dark, which absorb heat. So you may not want to wear a suit jacket in the car in hot weather. If you have the factory alarm system, the key fob comes in handy for dropping the front windows (hold unlock button), to let the heat out of the car before driving.

Hey guys .. i have 95 maxipad .. i mean GXE .. ( the lowest of the 3 versions offered) ... anyway - I used to have a 95 Ford Contour SE ... it was a 5 speed, but my maxipad is an auto.

the point of the story is the ford took an oil filter with a silicon valve which kept the oil in the top of the engine and reduced a lot of the clickity clakicty on startup.

What is the Silicon Valve oil filter equivalent for the 95 maxipad .. ( 3.0 V6, dual overhead cam)

The upper-end Purolator filter has a silicone valve for about $6.00. Purolator One, I think they call it? Drainback is definitely an issue for the Maxima engine.

I always buy a Nissan brand OEM oil filter it has the "Drainback" valve and the filter shell is designed for the pressure and high oil Temps.

How many miles on your six year old max? I've been looking at 10+ year old cars and it makes me wonder what has worn out on yours...?

As for the HP boosts from those mods, it seems to be in the range

...

I have a P505 code on my 2000 Maxima SE at 128.4K miles. My research say this is as Idle Control Valve/Aux Air Valve. SOunds resonable as the idle is bad (1500 RPM). I'd like to know the approx. cost to have it replaced if anyone has a clue. I don't think this is something I want to do myself.

Thanks!

I've run Fram in both Nissans I have owned (92 and 00), never had a problem. Some folks put them down but I've never seen a leak or poor oil cleaning. I run Mobil 1 oil so perhaps that makes a diference. The Fram guys tell me almost ALL filters on the market now have anti-drainback. Far as I can tell that feature is NOT required by any Owners Manual. IMHO, the other guys just want to sell thier filters, some may be better due to more filtering but some are not.

I found the problem: On the 3rd gens, the fixture that holds the stoplight bulbs in place in the tail light assembly gets really hot when holding at a stop. This causes the contacts on the bulbs and fixture to deform with age and eventually they run together, creating a short. I had a spare from a replacement tail light assembly that I cut and soldered into place- problem solved.

It's not a bad idea to check and replace all tail light bulbs on these old cars as I've had several bulbs pretend they are burned out, when they actually had bad contacts due to aging.

Thanks for the help, guys.

Chris

I once worked for a major filter Mfg. And watched the testing of the pleated papers of many brands of filters. They used AC fine as the test media during the pressure drop test. We took many brands of oil and air filters apart and found that the cheaper Frams have less pleated paper then the Frams sold as Heavy Duty also the HDs had stronger shell Matl. But in the engines that are being built today you stand little chance of getting the pleated paper of even the cheapest brand filters so badly blocked that the relief valve bypass's the oil unfiltered. I still stand behind my post that buying a Nissan OEM oil filter is a really good choice.

No it's not. Similar but not "the same".

Have you checked out the difference between them? They have different camshafts and pistons etc. Yea I guess the engineers at nissan are to dumb to realize just changing the AF would produce the same HP increases. :-)

I've dyno tested these cone filter upgrades and most do nothing, several have lost HP and turn it into a "hot air intake" system. You do realize the factory air filter system is already a cold air intake setup?

What makes people believe it has more power is the noise it makes. On a dyno these type of mods on an stock engine do next to nothing and nowhere NEAR

It also affects the running pressures which affect efficiency. Even a home A/C system doesn't perform very well if you try to use it in mild temps, at least I know mine doesn't.

Hello all,

I have a 97 maxima. Please don't ask how but I shattered my remote for my locks, is there a way to get a new one?

Ok okay, it was a freak accident. I had just returned from a home improvement store and laid everything on the floor including my keys. No I did not step on them. When putting on my tool belt the hammer fell out and landed on my keys. It destroyed the remote.

Thanks, Fred

No worries. Tons of them on ebay for cheap.

But how does one reprogram the code?

The 24 valves on top are my concern, i am running mobil 1 ... and even restore oil additive ,,, and when changing the oil, i use the engine flush ( its a cold flush - you add the quart of stuff like kerosine, run the engine 5 min and drain - no need to drain the poor car when its lifeblood is and internal parts are at

My car has nearly 120,000 I got it with about 112,500 - it had stupidly had about 2 quarts more than needed in it -- quickly got a change at jiffy lube and i think they may have made the same mistake of overfilling ! put additive in with it and ran about 2000 before i think using a semi -synthetic - The car began its days in Kissimmee as one of those rentals on a fleet for tourists I believe - after about 3 years , I think an older couple bought it ... I think one of them died and the car sat the last year before I got it ( tires had those flat spots that go thump when the hit the road) - .. i got rid of the steel rims after loosing one of the caps and got some nice , albeit older, aluminums and some wider BF goodriches .. it handles real nice and is much quiter ( i should prolly get an alignment ) ... the car has a good body and paint , - though it is pearl white - ( triple tone process- expensive to replicate) --- a few dents - one in eaach rear door and one in the rear unberbelly pan ( where a rear passenger side( right) would sit - the feet would be placed on the floor but there is no room because that pan comees up to within an inch of the seat bottom !

The relief valve is of little concern to me as much as the Silicon anti-drainback valve is to prevent the destructive cold start sequence of oil starvation in the valvetrain.

================ I don't agree about using that cold flush they did this back in the 40&50s and I remember it causing more problems then it solved. Getting a lot of dirty stuff flowing through the bearings is not a good idea. I do agree with using Mobil1 it's what I always used in all my Nissans Maxs and 89 and 98 and my 03 Kia Sorento also my 82 Ford Bronco. All bought new traded the 89 Max in on the Sorento in 03 only had 36K miles was in great shape except the power windows were giving us fits failing to fix them cost about $90 for each windows regulator replacment and the Labor. I really like the 98 Max it has a timing chain not a belt a better choice IMHO it only has about 15K miles. The Bronco was a real problem from the first winter it had the large V8 and that really bad Motercraft Var.Ven.2bbl.Carb. what a bummer. took years to find a replacment Carb. that would be legal to use cost $900 and $500 in labor this was about six years ago. I would never do this again but it had such low miles then still only has about 46K miles. =================

Fred Wilson wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

Ditto the ebay comment. I found a nearly trashed one in a parking structure and even that worked. Once you have the remote(s) follow the directions below.

From: Andi Baritchi Subject: Re: Keyless remote Date: 1999/01/20 Newsgroups: alt.autos.nissan.maxima

Repost (Thanks Steve):

"Setting mode":

(1) Close and lock all doors. (2) Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within

• At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated.

ID code entry:

(3) Turn ignition key to "ACC" position. (4) Push lock button on the new remote controller once (for example, if door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry enable state, a new ID code can be entered).

• At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.)

Additional ID code entry

(5) If you need to activate additional remote controllers, unlock the driver's door, then lock again with door lock knob. (6) Push lock button on the additional new remote controller once. (7) This ID code entry enable state and setting mode remain until the driver's door is opened.

NOTE

• If you need to activate more than two additional new remote controllers, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote controller.
• If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored.
• Entry of maximum four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored.
• Any ID codes entered after termination of the "setting mode" will not be accepted. Additionally remote control signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the "setting" mode.

---Steve

Yea I wouldn't worry about that either. Unfiltered oil isn't anythi g you should be concerned with.And that being the case, you might as well just gut the filter entirely! That's what running cheap filters with restrictive media is doing. I can't understand the logic of using expecive oil and then trying to save $1.50 on the oil filter.