can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Which is BS, there isn't -anything- safety related to that problem.

We replace the boot rather than the axles, about $120 each side to do this and it's a better repair than those cheapo reman axles ussually are.

They probably just cleaned them or maybe a pad replacement which should have been about $100-$125 at most.

These places will replace the brakes EVERYTIME you come in if you let them. We had a customer that showed us reciepts where a goodyear replaced the master cylinder 7 times in 85,000 miles, the front brakes(with rotors and calipers) 4 times and 6 rear brake jobs. I was FLOORED!

New rotors NEVER need to be resurfaced unless they are using those garbage made in china rotors, which they probably are.

Take my advice and NEVER use a tire store for anything other than buying tires.

As someone else said, if the rear calipers also employ the parking brake (you'll see the parking brake cable going to each caliper) you have to rotate the piston clockwise as you compress them. There is a simple tool that looks like a cube with nubs on each face that goes on an ratchet extention that makes this simple to do.

This was a Good Year tire store.

Thanks all for your input. I should have drive away and taken the minor rear movement noise with me to another place.

Looks exactly like the one I got from Courtesy Nissan for about $125 more... it will work just fine. You might want to change the bolts that fasten the bar to the tower brackets, though. The furnished bolts have a chrome plate on the threads that can fleck off, prevent getting an accurate torque and seize the nut if you try to disassemble them later. I swapped mine with some aerospace fasteners from work... but any quality fastener from a local bolt house is more than adequate. This isnt a safety-critical application (obviously)!

I am confused why it is important to rotate the pistons. The piston top has four notches, and one notch is supposed to fit into a bump in the brake pad shoe. Therefore, under normal operations the piston does not rotate while squeezing and unsqueezing the pads. Could you elaborate on this?

- Alex

Because it's IMPOSSIBLE to compress the caliper if you don't!

Things kept getting worse. Rough running at all mid-range throttle settings, especially when cold. I finally gave up and went to the dealer's shop. The problem turned out to be the airflow sensor (located just downstream from the air filter). Glad to have that smooth power back. Cost: $160 for parts, $250 for labor! --DanL

Just asking... what kind of air filter do you use? a K&N high-flow type by any chance?

I've got the same year and notice the same thing once or twice. Hasn't happen lately, so I hope it stays away. If you find an answer, let me know!

The DTC's you mentioned are P0171 (Fuel injection system lean/right bank) and P0174 (Fuel injection system lean/left bank). Possible Cause:

Intake air leaks Front heated oxygen sensor Injectors Exhaust gas leaks Incorrect fuel pressure Lack of fuel Mass air flow sensor

The IACV is located beneath your air intake after the air cleaner. You will find it next to the EGR volume control valve. It is a simple remove and replace. Just disconnect the wiring harness and remove the two bolts. Put a small amount of motor oil on the o ring seal to stick to the engine and then put the new valve on. The part will be around $230 and the dealer will charge $150 to replace.

Just stick with the stock 17" size. I run NITTO 450's and they're great. Also, I purchased my car new and I've never used premium fuel. I haven't had any problems. The coils seem to have been a problem for some owners. I have 73,000 miles and I haven't replaced them. I recently replaced my original NGK plugs with Bosch Platinum+4's. I noticed a big difference. My only real maintenance has been to replace my two rear O2 sensors after about 45,000 miles. Good luck.

I run 15" wheels. Ride is nice. Performs well in snow. Much cheaper tire. I think the speedometer is most accurate with 15's. I bet that was the original design spec.

I get knocking if I use regular or even mid grade gas. So I run premium unless on a long highway drive, I'll throw in regular.

I've replaced one coil so far on my 2000 with 80,000 miles.

Rotors were replaced when I bought it at 45,000 miles and it needs rotors again. What a pain.

I've also had one O2 sensor and one catalytic converter replaced under warranty.

Ed

Hey Doc, I am on my 12th Futura touring SE 80k tire and love them. Before I was strictly a Michelin fan. So after some research and pure luck as they did not have the mich's that I wanted I bought the Futura's. Comparatively NO difference, except on price. At the time of purchase the Michelins were 108.95 plus tax mounting and balance. The futuras were 49.75 plus tax. I also opted for the extra 5.00 for "road hazard" which covers you for flat tires bead leaks for s long as you own the car. To date I have hade 9 repairs and re-balances wth no charge to me. I love pep boy tires at least the Futura's(made by Cooper) and NO I Do Not Work There Or have any affiliation with them. Hope I have been helpful.

Tony C.

None of the wheels feel any warmer than the front once. Even after stop and go driving for a while.

That's because all normally aspirated cars need less octane at higher altitudes. They just don't get enough air to take full advantage of premium.

In PA, NY etc at around sea level, NA cars get plenty of dense air to pack more of a pucnh with premium.

CD

Is it possible to repair those shock absorber like «devices» that hold the hood open?

By the way, how are they named in the factory service manual?

Thank you very much.

Sure, you can get them at most any auto parts store for ~$20. Hood struts.

Hi:

I'd LOVE to get them for US$20, but since that price is actually reasonable you must have been kidding...mine cost Cdn$40, plus tax, EACH. They're marginally cheaper on E-Bay, even with shipping included. Type "Maxima hood" in the general search and you'll get a bunch of hoods, hinges and scoops, but catch all the strut guys too. As for repair, it can be done, but it involves re-sealing the thing so the gas in the cylinder does its job again. Hydraulic shops should be able to do that, but I haven't priced it. I currently have the same problem with my hood struts; in the meantime a nice shiny spruce 2'x4' works almost as well.

Art.

JimV wrote: