can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Stuck caliper perhaps? Is that wheel warm to the touch, much warmer than the others? That would confirm the sticking caliper. It's a bit of a common but not significantly major problem. I had it on my 98 SE. Same exact wheel, right rear.

CD

If you push the shifter over to the right (after it was in drive) it goes into manual mode. The indicator on the dash shows what gear you are now in instead of the 'D'. The shifter is also in a small gate area with "+" and "-". All you do is bump the shifter whichever way you want and the gears to change. If you forget and leave it in 5th, it will gear down as you apply the brakes. It will also upshift before over revving the engine. If you stay in 1st and put the pedal to the floor, you can shift at redline for every gear. Many other manufacturers have this type of transmission. I thik BMW calls theirs a Step-Tronic.

Sounds like the best of both worlds without the hassles of a clutch. Auto for thewife and manual for me. Too bad that the 04 and up Maximas are stil pricey. I guess I'm back to a 6 speed 02-03. I'm just nervous about the reviews saying that the gearbox is OK. A few people said that the gearbox was vague but I have no idea what that means. I wish someone would elaborate. And it would be great to know if the bearbox tames down with time and experience.

I suggest ordering one from

As for installing it, try this site.

Bill G '91 SE Auto

There's quite a few problem areas to watch for... here's a few covered by service bulletins.

1. ignition coils go bad
2. auto tranny slips 1-2 and 2-3
3. brakes tend to warp rather easily
4. Manual transmission cars have a surge in low gear
5. Auto transmission cars have motorized motor mounts that fail

I've had problems #2, 3 and 5 go on mine so far (at 60K). I'm watching closely for problem #1 as I've had the check-engine light go off twice (it reset).

There are others... you can get an excellent collection of service bulletins at

Also note the existence of a service bulletin doesn't mean there is a campaign; that is to say, warranty coverage has to be in effect for the dealer (Nissan) to do this work for free. Having knowledge of a service bulletin just means you get to talk to a mechanic a little more knowledgeably and save the hundreds of dollars they can charge while they "trouble shoot" a known problem.

Also... if you are mechanicaly inclined (and many of these are fairly easy fixes) you have the procedure nicely spelled out, along with the exact parts to get to make sure you don't get the same bad ones again!

BuddyWh

Howdy Y'all, I got a code of P1550 on my 97 Nissan Pick-up. AutoZone checked it and said it was my "Idle Speed Control". What the heck.....and WHERE the heck is the Idle Speed Control??? Preciate ANY help! ~~TOM~~ from Humble, Texas

Yes the Purolator one its about $6 .. i dont know what wallie world is charging or if they have it but i couldnt find what one it was .. the cross reference.. i think the motorcraft version at advance auto was about $7 something ... i'm guessing the purolator-one might be better ... the motorcraft one for the 95 maxi is s821 i think

you guys go to maxima.org ? you cant do a search without being a registered , paying? member

anyother good sites for getting good info ?

thanks, eric

A real nissan one is less than $6 (less than $5 if you buy 10 at a time) and you want to experiment with these others using your own car?

I don't get it.

Thanks Guys

Got the power unit out after cutting antenna mast and found that the motor would only work in up direction - got a used one for $25 CAD put in the new mast I had for good measure and it's fine.

I was on a roll so I also resoldered my clock per info on this group - resoldered the door timer - bought a new daytime module ($200CAD) to fix lights.

My 1992 Maxima GXE is still going good @ 300,000kms. Its been crashed into three times - it is dark grey colour never washed and looks like a moving pile of dirt - seriously these accidents (one a t-bone) were not my fault and no injury to me so the car does not need to be retired yet.

Just a couple more years please!

Michael

Nissan makes pretty good cars ... (although you're going to have trouble replaceing a timing belt since that engine is shoed in their sideways ) ... Just because a mfg. makes a real good car , doesn't mean they have the best oil filter for it does it ? It is to an auto mfg's adv. to sell more cars ( that is an important business aspect, maintaining cash flow , or the resell of product to customers on a regular basis) -- if the car lasts forever, how can they do that as the ave american does drive the car till it dies, or at least the nickel and dime effect or the engine noise starts , tranny slips, etc. Sure, cars can build a good reputation for lasting a long time and being durable but I would need more evidence that the Nissan oil filter is better for the nissan Maxima engine than the purolator-'pure-one' . There is a web site with a ton of brand comparisons where each one is disected .. I will try and find it.

yeah i remember this Canadian guy's site and it is a kik ass put together....

Hey, at least you got the most important thing fixed! : /

Yes, because the engineers who designed the engine know EXACTLY what micron size the media needs to be to protect the engine.

So you think they are trying to sabotage your car selling you bad filters? If that's the case wouldn't it be in their interest to "time" something like the automatic tranny pump to fail at a certain milage since very few people use dealer filters anyway?

Yet you're willing to ASSUME the "pure one" is better with no real evidence? Actually the link you posted shows how well the nissan filter is constructed compared to an aftermarket one..

What most people fail to understand is filters are engineered to a specific application, They know which size particles cause no harm and to filter finer than this causes a restriction which then causes the internal (in the engine block or sometimes inside the filter) bypass valve to open so you have ZERO filtration. If this valve is inside the filter, is the aftermarket one calibrated for this engine correctly? Because of this, the filter itself is part of this calibrated hydraulic system and you have no idea if these more expensive aftermarket filters are designed correctly. I'd be willing to bet the filter sold for this application by purolator is also sold as "being right" for anything it will screw onto and not leak. That is assuming a lot that every engine has the same filtration needs.

I know -you'll- never be convinced that the parts you get at autozone aren't as good or better but maybe someone else reading this will learn something.

I went to pep boys looking at tires today and they had a set of Hankock Optomo tires for about 90 bucks a tire, was wondering if anyones used these before? also had question about their "Futura" brand and if anyone has used them, looking for an all season thats decent in snow up here in RI, I don't really race the car, so I'd like a long treadlife if possible (like 40,000 miles or so would be good). at pep boys they alswo said they could order the Avon 550's but were like 145 each. (ouch) plus mounting and crap came to about 600 all said and done. any other suggestions? of either tires or places to go in southern new england.

A while back, its check engine light turned on and I have replaced all three OS2 sensors. Now, I got P0400 trouble code (EGR flow mulfunction). could some one help me and advise which part I should repair / replace, and where EGR system is?

Thanks.

Juping

You probably need to remove the EGR and clean the ports.

My Maxima 1999 started the following behavior about six months back...

- initially, "service engine" light came on. I took the car to a local mechanic and the code apparently said "primary ignition failure". Since obviously my car was starting fine, he just reset the light and said everything was ok.

- after a couple of weeks, sometimes all the lights would come on: "service engine", "traction control off" and "slip" and the car starts to shake.

- I took the car to Nissan dealer. They say that my ignition coil is coming apart and needs to be replaced. They reset the "service engine" light, but it came back again after a couple of days.

- Currently, "service engine" light is ON all the time and the car shakes when all the other lights come on (happens couple of times a week). I noted that it has nothing to do with warm engine/cold engine, but it always happens from the time of start (that is, the shaking does not start when I am driving, but from the time I start the car).

I find the dealer diagnosis incredible - is the technology so advanced that they can sense a falling apart ignition coil ?

Any insights on what the problem might be, I would like some help before spending $$$$ on the ignition coil.

Thanks Regards

- Sam

i have gotten so fed up with the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light coming on , for what would appear to be no particular reason, on my 2000 Max, that i just ordered a 22 dollar code reader/resetter off of e bay. i will let you all know how or if this thing works out...

I have about worn out the dam battery terminals disconnecting them to rest the dam ECU (which on the 2000 model if the only dam way to do it,,,) My next step is to take the dam bulb out of the light - as i am not about to pay the dealer 60 to 100 bucks to read and reset the codes everytime the dam light pops on,,,from the number of post on the net this seems to be another manufacturing defect, right up there with the brakes, sun roof, and ignition coils,,,that Nissan is unwilling to take responsiblilty for.

JimV wrote:

back...

starts

engine"

engine,

advanced

Fuhgetabout the engine being sideways, it's practically impossible to replace the timing belt on most Nissan's;)

CD