Now that I've got the S2a parked outside the house SWMBO is moaning about the state of the bodywork. I was wondering what people's recommendations are for the best paint to use - it'll be brushed on rather than sprayed.
Regards Steve G
in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Mother at "@ {mother} @"@101fc.net wrote on 19/2/04 11:12 pm:
After reading the above website, I e-mailed Avenue on Bruce's behalf and this was the reply I received
and Steve's got the data sheets on the website too. Bruce just hasn't quite decided on the colour he's going to use on the Series 3 yet, as he's not decided if he wants to keep it or not yet, but the Lightweight will but it will probably be a military shade of green.
Brushed is fine, but you'll probably achieve better results with a gloss roller, or a fine mohair one. With gloss finish, be aware that you can't apply a second coat once the first one's dried, without flatting it back between the coats. Otherwise the second coat looks dreadfull....
With Matt paint you can apply as many coats as you like with anything up to a 4" pasting brush, it still looks ok!
Alex
On or around Thu, 19 Feb 2004 23:12:46 +0000, Mother enlightened us thusly:
go along with machine enamel, excellent stuff. Blackfriars used to do deep bronze green as "landrover green"; failing that, try the local agricultural place, which doubtless has tins of tractor enamel in various colours. Eventually, my 110 is going to be "Fiat tractor terracotta", if I ever get around to finishing painting it.
Nicky, What you could do (as an alternative to not having a Tekaloid colour chart) is get hold of any colour chart from any paint supplier because they always use more than one colour chart from different paint manufacturers, Dulux, Crown, Masons etc.
When you choose a colour you could post the chart to Alan at Avenue group where he will be able to mix your chosen colour from either a colour card sample or the colour code itself.
Or better still try and pick a British Standard colour and get him to mix that from the B.S 381C colour range. Land Rover Bronze Green for example is B.S 381/223.
Steve.
A simple dry scuff would suffice here to obtain the necessary key for subsequent coats and will avoid flaking paint problems at a later date when the paint becomes more brittle with age.
A matt finish does tend to show less imperfections because of the lack of reflective qualities but would still require sufficient keying nonetheless :)
Steve.
;)
Steve.
It's not the keying you have to worry about, it's the surface. Brushing/rolling does not produce a smooth surface. Particularly with brushing there will be brush marks in the surface. Painting over it again makes any marks and imperfections look very obvious. Believe me, I've done it.
Alex
On or around Fri, 20 Feb 2004 21:28:00 +0000, Alex enlightened us thusly:
IME it's got a lot to do with paint, skill of painter and temperature, and something to do with the quality of brush.
I've done some things and the paint's gone absolutely mirror smooth, others with the same brand paint have left brush marks, either due to the temperature being too high or too low.
You must be doing something wrong or the paint your using is not up to the job because gloss paint should flow out completely free from brush or roller marks.
Minor brush-marks can be eliminated if you "lay off" in the opposite direction from the previoust coat which helps fill in brush-marks. This page "
You need to use slow drying paints and definitely not fast drying fleet paints that do not allow sufficient time for the paint medium to flow out before drying.
Steve.
It is indeed ;)
The same paint manufacture can indeed have different performance results when it comes to application, Chestnut brown and certain reds can be quite difficult to apply in terms of speed because they perform more like undercoats drying a little too fast using denser pigments.
Steve.
Many thanks for the tips so far, much appreciated. As a guide, how much paint do you think I would need to cover a 109" LWB hardtop? It's currently blue and I'm going to keep the same colour, although not the same shade. How many coats do you think it will take?
Regards Steve G
On or around Sat, 21 Feb 2004 20:48:32 GMT, SteveG enlightened us thusly:
decent machinery enamel should do it in one coat if the surface is good and reasonably close to the new colour. Otherwise 2. and a 109 HT os gonna need a fair lot of paint. ISTR a litre did a SWB softop, for one coat, some years ago.
Steve,
I just wanted to say what a brilliant web site you have. I never knew there was so much to know about paint and painting. It's now one of my "favourites" ;-)
Regards Steve G
Cheers Steve ;)
The info on the website will help to start you off, if you get stuck and need extra help just e-mail me.
Steve.
The amount needed will depend on the state of your existing paintwork texture, porosity etc.
I'd go for 2½ litres if using just gloss or 3 litres if you intend using an undercoat, but if you do plan to use undercoat mix the extra litre of gloss to the undercoat 50-50 never use neat/straight undercoat if you wish to eliminate brush-marks.
Some colours do cover better than others and this will differ with each paint manufacture.
It is always better to have some paint left over after you've finished than to run out halfway through and you can use it for any future touch-ups :)
Steve.
You may yet live to regret that offer :-))
Regards Steve G
in article snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com, Stephen Hull at Steve@127.0.0.1 wrote on 20/2/04 7:47 pm:
Got some of those as I've just painted the living room.
Thanks for that. I'll pass the message on.
I'll survive :)
Steve.
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