What breaks? What's expensive to fix if it does break? Thinking of a 2.0 Twink or 1.8.
- posted
19 years ago
What breaks? What's expensive to fix if it does break? Thinking of a 2.0 Twink or 1.8.
And where do I find cheap Nissan bits?
Re the 2.0 Primera, there's lots of info around but not much on the 1.8, try
Mechanically absolutely bullet proof.
Rust gets to the rear of the sills where they meet the rear arches. Also watch for sills getting filled with water.
Electric windows can play up - this is possibly the control box in the driver's door, or could just be that the winding mech. needs oiling.
Resistor packs on the heater fan can cause issues - it's not uncommon to lose the 1st speed and the rest will be fine.
Engine has a camchain - mine was on nearly 130k miles and was still silent, so I wouldn't budget for a replacement before 150k at least.
They handle very well, but look for a decent set of tyres, mine was a little 'hairy' when pressing on in the wet, but I had a feeling it was infinitely better than me in the dry.
That's about it.
They're cheap as chips, and a bit of a bargain.
True my 1600 has 105,000+ miles and does not use a drop of oil, smoke or make funny noises and starts first time and it.s an old carb equiped model
It seems that the drains for the sunroof exits into the sills, I altered mine to exit through a spare blanking grommet futher up thr hinge panel.
Thats easily fixed with the aid of a soldering iorn
Comfortable with loads of room
Trevor Smith Primera 1600 P10
I had a P10. 2lt SLXi. Not a bad car, but I just couldn't get emmotionally attatched to it as I do to my Alfas, so I racked up 10k miles in it in 3 months and sold it for more or less what I paid for it.
Another thought. P10's (90-96) and P11's (96 on) are rather different in how they drive but are equally capable in their own way. P10 is a bit rough round the edges in comparison to a P11, a bit noisier, controls not as smooth, but has the sharper handling, but the P11 although the steering is a bit softer has better overall grip and has a bigger margin for driver error (on the same tyres).
The 1.8s were released much later, in either 2000 or 2001 as I recall...
I have a 1998 1.8 SRI and touch wood the only problem is the rear lights, ashtray light and dashboard fuse blows during the dampwinter months.
OK I know it is the live going to earth but where god knows. Infuriating but I just love my car. Arthur
On Thu, 7 Oct 2004 22:33:30 +0100, "Trevor Smith" wrote: What breaks? What's expensive to fix if it does break?
I actually quite like Primeras, but I couldn't get enough legroom in the P10.
Always quite fancied a GT one though, the 150 bhp job.
Just a crying shame I've never been able to get comfy in one until the current shape, and the new ones are just downright ugly.
I fancy trying a GT, but I'm still not convinced it would be a true 'emmotion' car, especially with no more power than the 155/75. The P10 eGT would outhandle the 155, but a 155 Widebody would pull this back.
I really did like the Primera in a lot of ways, but heart rules head when I'm buying cars.
Touch wood, nothing's gone wrong yet with my '97 P11 and it still looks almost new under the bonnet, a few bonnet stone chips and that's it really, everything works as intended. I think the best years for Primeras re. reliability is 97 to 99 from my experiences and reading between the lines in lots of car magazine and owner reports.
The Mk.1 Primera (P10) didn't have a 1.8: there were 1.6, 2.0 or diesel only. However, the later 1.6s has over 100bhp and were equal or better than 1.8 of other marques.
I had a 1.6 P10, it was fab, did 10,000 miles in it, and sold it for the same price I bought it for. Most things are more expensive than the Ford, Vauxhall part if they break, but things tend not to.
I have a Toyota Avensis and a P11 Primera. The old P10 Primera was the better car of the three.
I have heard of 5th gear jumping out (the gearstick
Well buddy mines the 1st you've heard of then, i've got a p11 GT with a whole 50K miles on the clock, the local gearbox specialist wasnt at all suprised when i took it in. Looking at about £600 to get it fixed, or £200 for a 2nd hand box, plus prolly £200 to fit it.
Apart from that i've got no complaints, i've heard people have had heater fan resisters blow, and the front suspension does 'knock' at times, but apparently it the way its set up?!?, its got a timing chain not belt so thats one less thing to change, only gripe i have ever had is the poor turning circle, 2 years and i still cant get used to parking the thing!!
If i were looking for one again i'd still get a GT
Fuel economy, low 40's on m'ways and medium 30's round town. 1/2 leather seats, e/l windows, e/l sunroof, 6 cd changer, a/c, stiffer suspension and bigger brake disks and 20HP more than the standard 2.0L or even the sri, and you'll get a nice 98/99 model for £2000/£3000, and insurance isnt bad either, no points/claims etc, £300.
Hope this helps.
Interesting. I always thought it was because our American friends are so used to auto boxes that they're a bit clumsy with manuals. Perhaps not.........but did you see that Top Gear thing where a celeb drives a Suzuki Leon round a race track, it was the American (David Soul?) that trashed 2 gearboxes.
Can you or anyone else for that matter remember any more detail on this?
My sister-in-law has an 'N' plate 1.6 Primera. It's been a superbly reliable car except that it 'blows' alternators every 29,000 miles. The car's on the fourth now and it happens so regularly that you can almost predict to the nearest 200 miles when it's going to need another one.
I've asked around the newsgroups, the motor trade and even contacted The Telegraph's Honest John to see if he knew of a recurrent problem with alternators on this model - he didn't and neither it seems does anyone else.
ISTM that the rear of the alternator is too close to the exhaust manifold and even though there is a heat shield, I wonder if heat soak from the exhaust causes the problem? Each alternator has failed in the same way, i.e. the diode pack goes short circuit and drains about 3.5 amps from the battery. The last alternator to fail was a Bosch one, the original and first replacements were Magneti Marelli so manufacturer doesn't seem to make a difference. Any clues?
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