can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

congrats on the 190K

Hi

I have been trying to replace my antenna mast which was stuck about 9' out. I have followed the method generally given on this group and taken the base nut off and manageed to get the antenna to its full extent by easing it up when the radio is turned on. My problem is that I can't pull it any further and it won't move either way even when I turn the radio on and off. Since it is at its full extent I cannot remove the anternna power unit. What can I don to extract the mast unit, is something retaining in the power unit ??

Best regards

Michael

Since you can't pull it all the way out, you'll have to cut it off- ouch!!!! Then, remove the entire unit from inside the trunk. It sounds like the old rack is jammed in there. Open up the reel cover and remove the broken piece or remove the old rack that has jammed. You might have to hook up the power and turn it on to allow the gear to unwind so you can pull the old piece out. In any event, yer gonna have to open up the unit. You'll be buying the entire antenna mast and nylon rack (the toothed leader portion that goes in the coiling reel inside the power unit) so don't worry about cutting off the old mast- there is nothing that is reuseable. Write me if you need any further help.

Chris

Thx Chris

I had bought a new mast (I had done this before about 5 yrs ago) but I wasn't sure what was on the rack. I wanted to cut the antenna off but I needed a second opinion. I am going to try it tomorrow if the rain holds off. Thx

Michael

Forgot to say what model. 2000 Max 72,000 miles

I have been driving a 95 SE 5-spd since May 94, and still love it. At that time the manual was a full second quicker 0-60 and faster 1/4 mi.

The only situation I would consider an automatic is if I had to put up with bumper to bumper daily commute. Fortunately I live 3 miles from work and do not have to drive into Chicago during rush hour very often.

My 2001 Pathfinder (purchased March 2004 w/99k miles) has an automatic, but it is very hard to find one of those used with manual shift, and the auto has higher towing capacity.

Hi all, I would appreciate any insight into this problem with my 92 Maxima GXE.

Since a couple of weeks, the idle speed on my maxima has started misbehaving. When I am at a red light, it fluctuates wildly as if the car is going to stall. The car behaves fine when I am driving. This only happens when I am in a stopped position such as a red light. The problem is more noticeable in the drive position. It is less noticeable in the park or neutral position.

My car passed the emissions test earlier this year with flying colors so I am not sure if this is emission-related. Any thoughts much appreciated.

Thanks, Sunny

First and easiest thing to try, clean the throttle housing.

my car is at like 35k miles (2001) and I'm wondering what I should be doing for service at this time (besides the regular oil and filter changes) I use conventional "dyno" oil and have been thinking about switching to either mobil one amsoil or some other type of synthetic (mainly for longer change periods and better engine wear) I just put in a K&N drop in filter so I should eb all set with that for 50,000 when I have to reoil) about choing oil, if I move to synthetic, what kind should I get (5w-30, 0w-30, something else?) should I be draining and refilling tranny fluid or radiator fluid at this stage? or plugs or anythign else? just wondering, thanks!

-Nick

You should take that K&N and throw it away. Then keep using using dyno changing it every 5K or so. Synthetic does no harm, but has no real benefit either (except in extreme cold). I know, this is akin to a religous argument with lots of opinions. That's mine.

-jim ('98 Max with 187K on dyno oil. Doesn't burn a drop).

Jim....

I Love You Man ...

Quote..."You should take that K&N and throw it away"

I agree with everything you say with exception to the oil change interval.

Cheers dude

I agree. Throw the K&N away (or start a savings acount for a new MAS) and change oil 3500-4000 using dyno oil.

High five to ya Steve !!

Jim V,

If you make it to Florida , look me up.

I got a pitcher of beer waiting with your name on it.

and you are invited too Steve T

I change oil and filter very 5k or so, that's kilometres, so that makes it every 3100 miles or so.

I stick with the Nissan filters exclusively. I seem to remember a local dealer hav> > my car is at like 35k miles (2001) and I'm wondering what I should be doing

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind if I'm in the neighborhood.

:-)

NissTech wrote:

Seems like you could have a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks can have numerous origins. First determine if you indeed have a leak by trying the propane-enrichment test.

Professor

Sounds like an imbalance or run-out problem with the release bearing or pressure plate. It could be signaling that the bearing itself is failing. If this is the case, you will probably notice a fairly rapid deterioration accompanied by noise. Personally, I'd wait it out for a while and see if it worsens or starts growling.

Professor

a BIT more fun? It's like night and day!:) Even if an auto has more gears, like the 7 speed auto available in some Benzes, the stick/standard is just so much more fun to drive. For example, the auto never knows when you want to downshift. It drives me crazy when I push the accelerator down in an auto just to get a wee bit more acceleration, and the damn thing downshifts. How about holding a gear before shifting up? You are at the mercy of the auto transmission Gods as to when the car will upshift. Sure, they have auto-sticks and you can use gear 3, 2 or 1, but it just isn't the same thing.

In terms of automotive technology, stick used to be way faster than an automatic, what with more gears AND less weight, but autos have caught up a great deal. The difference in weight of the auto version of a car compared to the manual is diminishing and the auto is getting more gears. We'll soon be at a point where autos will actually be faster than manuals, but they will never ever be as much fun. Look at even the most advanced paddle shifting BMW M3 SMG, pretty much state of the art auto box (actually a manual box shifted automatically.) Still, the 6 speed M3 with the clutch pedal that YOU actuate is more fun. Nuff said.

If you really really like to drive, stick is the way to go. Hold out for one, it may take longer, but what's a couple of weeks to search for a car that you will live with for a couple of years?

CD