can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Sounds like a good price

Not much more than 16". The difference will make a small difference to the speedometer

Yes, it requires 90 octane to run correctly. Your Integra probably did as well. It will run on 87 with reduced power and MPG.

Maybe never, maybe tomorrow, not way to predict. They are not that expensive if you install them yourself.

I narrowed down my selection of tires to the avon 550 a/s, the Yokohama Avid V or s 4's, and teh BFG Traction A/T . question about the yoko's, should the H rated outlast the V rated tires? (I don't drive nearly the speed a v rated tire would be needed for) the highest speed I'll hit is 80-85 (on a rare occasion) my 2nd question is about size, sizes I'm between are the normal

Does anyone know if the VG series gearboxes are the same for VG20 and VG30? Its so hard to find info on the VG20!

No matter how you drive, the Yok's won't last as long as the BFG's. As far as size, the 17 size indicates that it will match your 17 rims. The

If you think the parking cable is the problem, then after driving for a little, both rear wheels should feel warm to the touch, quite a bit warmer than the front wheels. Check that out.

CD

I have 96 Maxima with about 80k on it, and it is running smooth. Last few years, it appears that door locks on my car has gotten bit sensitive.

If you try to unlock it from inside, it locks/unlocks several time, and then it may open.

If you touch the door handle, it locks/unlocks several times before it finally opens.

For example, My wife is putting our kids in the car seat, and one of the door is open, and all of the door locks itself even nobody has touched the lock.

Anyone has experienced this? Any simple fix for this. I asked dealer, and he wants $79 to inspect the problems on top of what problem they could find. He is thinking that it may be lock solenoid that may gotten hyper sensitive. Any help will be great.

I finally bit the bullet and made a decision. I ordered the yoko Avid V4s tires in 215/50/17 for my stock nissan rims. speed is a little more than 1% off which is fine and has a 50,000 warranty. hopefully they will work out. thanks for all your help!

Great tires

Nirav's diagnosis is right on the money.

If Nirav came to my shop looking for a job I'd give it to him in a heartbeat.

Will stock 17" wheels fit on a 95? (tired of the 15s)

thanks Mike

come on dudes... i'm not a dag on salesman for this company but it does have very good reviews and i have seen a reduction in engine friction with this product ! i think its good for the engine.. hey , if it helps the cold start clickity clack go away, that piece of mind in itself is worth the $5 extra per change ... (well, i dont know if this lasts for 5000 miles but definitly the cold start click goes away for at least 2k miles maybe 3 or

Yes - they will be a direct swap. Your speedo might be off slightly depending on the final circumference of the rim/tire combination.

Nirav

thanks Nirav.

Mike

Check out the classifieds section of forums.maxima.org for wheels - you can find everything from OEM take-offs to the latest rap-video specials :)... new OEM rims will be prohibitively expensive from a dealer. You could probably find some at a local wrecker too. Cheers.

I was also a long-time Integra owner before getting a 2001 Maxima. I immediately missed the tight handling of the Integra. I put on an after-market front strut tower bar that took care of a lot of the handling problems. A rear anti-sway bar improved the body lean on the sweeping free-way interchanges. Overall, after adjusting front/rear tire pressures a little, they both tightened up the handling a lot. Still not as good as the Integra but then it is a much heavier car... and lacks a fully independent rear suspension, but at least it's not a boat in comparison now.

The coil packs are prone to failure, but once the original packs have been replaced with newer, improved-design packs they aren't. Just be sure to get the new-design parts when you replace them. If you do your own plugs, you can do the coil packs. They'e very easy.

As far as gas: yes, the car performs best (performance, mileage) on premium (89-91) but it will run on regular since it has an anti-knock detector to prevent engine damage. While I've never noticed an improvement on super premium (93 or higher) I'm sure others do. Especially if they've made mods that screw up calibration of the engine control system.

At high-altitudes (above 4000 feet or so) it will also run as well (or poorly, if you will) on regular as premium in the oxygen-rarified air. I used to live at 4400 feet (El Paso) and it was only noticeable if I put 84 or 85 octane in it.

It's interesting to note that no stations sold super premium (above

I think it would be safer to consider it the opposite: the lower speed-rated tire may be expected to last longer than the higher speed rated tire.

The higher speed rated tires are high performance tires, the rubber compounds are optimized for traction. They don't wear as well... that's not the intended purpose. I've known people to dump $2000 into ultra-high performance Z-rated tires only to have them wear out in

The best way to compare tires for expected wear is to look at the tire ratings (something like '200 AB'). The treadwear indicator, '200' in this case, may not be an accurate predictior of how it will perform on your car, with your driving habits. But it is a good comparison to another tire's rating since all tires are tested in exactly the same way to arrive at the ratings.