can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

My 97 Nissan Maxima developed a low squeak or click when pulling to a stop in reverse out of my garage. [65,000 miles of senior citizen driving]

Took it to one of the chain Tire/Repair Service Centers for a change of oil and mentioned the above.

Result: Check brake sqeak [sp] $00. Two drive axels $199.98, Install same, $253.50 One Front disk brake o/h with loaded calipers Parts $180.94, Lab. $126.75 Two front rotors $159.92 One rear disc brake maintenance $178.91 One brake Flush $59.99 To bring it up to 1.3K, the oil change $18.88, sales tax of $109.34 In total Parts $721.58 Labor $460.51 [car at their shop for four hours0

Does the above sound for real. Last time at this shop $650.00 for a starter.

Should I find a new place for repairs?

Stay away from that place. It's very rare for 4th gen Max's to have rotor or caliper problems at that low a mileage. Find a good independent shop.

chester durk> My 97 Nissan Maxima developed a low squeak or click when pulling

Why take your car to a tire store for repairs? Do you go to the dentist when your feet hurt?

To answer your question, yes those places are a RIP OFF and they have been taking your money.. Like how can they charge for "flushing" the brakes when they already have the system open and have to bleed it anyway? the calipers on these cars almost NEVER go bad and I'm willing to bet your's were fine. etc etc. Sounds like the car needed maybe $200-$250 worth of brakes + an oil change to me.

I get about 310 from a full tank, with a 50 litre fill up, being 13.21 u.s gallons. Car is a 1992 nissan maxima, 3 litre v6. It's not a cheap car to drive, but the performance is very nice. This is with fairly careful driving, with a lot of highway. In the city, and driving less carefully, I can end up only getting 248 miles or so on 13.21 gallons

William

G'day to you too mate thanks for the response the other day. My mechanic looked at a couple of prints out but he already had in mind to change the Mass airflow sensor. Since doing it last thursday 5/19 my daughter says she cannot believe the difference and pick up it now has.Unfortuately there is no code for a problem on Mass Aiflow sensor.My mechanic said most people would have started at the o2 sensors .Our cost was $200. i hope this helps other owners

I just changed front brake pads on wifes 99 maxima, now need to replace rear pads. Seems like last time I tried, had trouble removing pads and ended up taking to mechanic. Could someone give me some tips on removing these rear pads. Thanks for any help.

Prior to the work being done the sales service manager while mumbling about safety issues showed me where rubber, or plastic covers over each of the rear axles was split. Replacement of the rear drive axles accounted for about $450.00 of the invoice. Could this split have been a factor in the axles going bad, if they were bad? I do not know what is meant on the invoice about "rear brake maintenance" which amounted to $178.91 for parts and labor.

I made no mention of a problem with the front brakes as I had spent $129.00 at 44,000 miles for "front brake service-2 wheel disc w/pad,install metallic pads- resurface rotors then testing some of the things that were a part of the present repairs on the front brakes, as: 2 frt rotors at $79.96 each and "front disc brake o/h with loaded calipers replace front brake calipers, friction material, hardware, and resurface brake rotors as needed for [parts] $180.44, [labor] $126.75. It was probably a standard phrase, but it appears to me that there would be no need to "resurface brake rotors as needed" if new rotors were being installed.

I appreciate the comments previously made.

Also has instructions for other common tasks on the Maxima.

Your mechanic was correct in diagnosing the Mass airflow sensor. The failure codes you were seeing seem to be one of the more frequently occuring problems on the 2000 year Maxima's. Each time, the MAF has been the source of the problem. Glad you got the problem fixed.

Cheers. Nirav

I've been looking at trying to improve my handeling on my car a bit. one thing I'm definetly going to do is a front strut tower brace. from looking on-line it doesn't seem hard to do at all. my question is does it matter which one I get (as long as it's for my 01 max?) I saw one on ebay for like

I too was thinking about putting a front strut tower brace on my 2000 GLE but the only ones I could find specified that they would only fit the GXE and SE. Go figure . . .

I actually found a huge hole in my exhaust so now I need to get the pipe fixed so I can decide if I'll keep the intake and Greedy muffler.

The pistons must be rotated as they are squeezed apart.

Go to Autozone and rent the rear caliper brake tool (free). It squeezes and twists the piston open with no fuss. You can get ratchet adapters that do the twisting only, but if the caliper is a little sticky you'll still fight it. Using pliers to twist is even less effective.

Dave

I got my FSTB from Courtesy Nissan... I don't know if they still carry them. If it is specifically designed for your model/year I don't think it will matter, performance wise, which one you get. Be careful of the ones made for 4th gen Max's... they will fit but can be tricky to put on a 5th generation. They need to be modded. There are many that have extreme styling, good for putting together a show car I guess.

As far as the rear sway bar... the only ones I know of are made by Stillen and Addco. I used an Addco bar... it wasn't too hard to put on but I had to put the rear of the car on jack stands to get underneath. As I recall, I had to open up one of the U bolts to fit correctly (it's very snug... as it should be)..

It's also important ot locate the brackets correctly else the right side one will interfere with the transverse link when the suspension compresses fully.

Cattman Performance also sells both FSTB and the Addco sway bar...

The front bar doesn't matter as long as it fits. The price difference is mainly cosmetic. All it has to do is handle tension and compression between the strut towers, and any rigid piece of metal can do that.

The rear ones aren't difficult to install, just be sure you stay clear of brake lines and the like. The main difference between RSBs seems to be the degree of adjustability, but it's not that big of a deal. Having both front and rear bars are definitely worth the money, helping to correct chronic understeer.

Depending on how you drive, you'll probably lose less power than you think. The intake is probably what you hear in the car the most, and it can lessen low end power with minimal gains at the top end. Greddy mufflers aren't known to be excessively loud compared to most other brands.