can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

I have an 01 max with about 31k on it. I keep it garaged and I've noticed that starting when it hasn't run during the day is fine, but if I stop home for a little bit, and then go back out when I start the car it will almost sputter into a stall (feels like its about to stall then it catches and it's fine) any ideas what might cause this? I change the oil and filter regularly (every 3000 - 3200 miles) also change my air filter ever 10k or so. could it be plugs at 31,000 miles?

the plugs should be good for about 90,000 miles, so that would not be the problem.

Try changing the air filter, plugs, wires and cleaning out the throttle body. If you're going to keep the car then this is good maintenance anyway. Just remember to buy OEM parts.

How does one go about cleaning out the throttle body? What are the symptoms that it needs cleaning?

Thanks . . .

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

throttle

I have a 2002 GLE and one of the keys with the keyless entry FOB was stolen. Do I need to have the lock rekeyed and if so is this expensive or can the existing key be reprogammed as I believe it has a chip in it. I would also will need and additional key.

Thanks

to clean the throttle body I just basically open the butterfly valve and use throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush right? (I used to have a 93 saturn sl2, and they were natorious for haivng LOADS of carbon in there and it would actually make the gas pedal stick. should plugs really die at 31,000 miles though? it's an 01' max and it's 05, would they die in 4 years of not being used?

My CEL light went on for the first time about 4 months ago. I pulled the codes and got 0707 (rear o2 sensor) and 0304 (knock sensor). However, since the car was running OK, and since I'd already spent money in other places, I decided to leave it alone and just reset the ECU.

A month or so later, the CEL came on again (no surprise, since I hadn't fixed anything) so I ignored it. But then it went out on its own. Then it came on again. And the gas mileage is suffering.

2 questions: Why would the CEL go out without me manually resetting it. Also, I've read that one problem may trigger another 'ghost' code. Some people have said its the O2 sensor problem triggering the knock sensor code, others have stated it's the other way around. Given my car is touching 20000km (about 125000 miles) what is the most likely culprit?

Thanks....

The computer continues to take samples after a code is set. If the original problem does not come back after some number if trips it turns the light back off.

The knock sensor sets a code, but does not turn on the light. It could have been in there for a while. The rear O2 sensor's role is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter, so it doesn't really do anything. If you live in a place that requires emissions testing, it won't pass until you fix the O2 sensor.

If these are the only problems, I suspect the knock sensor is causing the poor mileage, since the computer will be adjusting things to a fail-safe mode (it has to assume there is a knock if the sensor is not working).

I guess it depends on the circumstances of how the key was stolen. If the key was stolen out of your home, or with any ID, or if there is any way the thief can know where you live or where you park you car during the day (work, etc.), you should have the locks on the car recored and new keys made, and the keyless entry coded changed. If you do not do this, the theif can come back anytime he wants, and steal you car. He can even wander a parking lot or neighborhood pressing the "lock" button on the FOB until your car beeps it's location.

It's no accident he stole your car key. Thieves target car and even house keys for just this purpose.

New keys are $80 each, new cores $50 and new codes another $50, so you are looking at $500 total. Take it to the dealer and have it done right.

If the key was stolen in such a way that the thief could never, ever, ever know who you are, where you live or where you normally park, then you might take the risk and just get a replacement key.

However, if he took they key, it propbably means he did so knowing he could find the car later on.

J

Does anyone know if the 04 Maxima has a timing chain or timing belt??

TIA Digital Doug

Hi all. On a recent trip, after driving for around two hours, I began to notice an intermittent power loss. I still had a good hour or so to travel, and was in NYC rush hour stop-and-go traffic without a cell phone. So I kept driving, at first noticing only every few minutes a temporary power loss, which seemed to clear itself up within, say 10 to thirty seconds. Kicking the accelerator seemed to have no effect on when it would recover. When the car was in park, at that point, it seemed fine when I revved the engine.

The problem progressed, though, until it began to stall out. It would slow down to an absolute crawl, regardless of the gas pedal position, then stall. It would then generally restart, but would stall again a few times. I noticed that if the engine were off for a minute or two, it would start right back up. Eventually, I was stranded a couple blocks from home, unable to get it started again. I looked under the hood for any obvious signs of distress, checked fluids, looked for leaks. About ten minutes later, I decided to try to start it again, and it started right up- only to crawl that last two blocks, stalling regularly.

Couple things: the engine doesn't run hot- the needle stayed right in the center through all of this. Also, the loss of power was not sputtering, like when one cyllinder isn't firing- it was always smooth, even while crawling. Fuel filter is a year old, looked new at last oil change, maybe 500 miles ago. Also, the following day, I couldn't replicate the symptom. At least, not by running the car for 25 minutes.

So, it seems temperature-related. Fuel pump relay? Fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pump? How can I tell? And where is the fuel pump relay anyway?

Thank in advance

chain

Looks like a crank angle sensor problem, based on my past experience.

CV boot gave up after 9 1/2 years. Haynes says to pull off the shaft and work with the assembly in a vise. What's to be gained in doing this? It looks like the joint can be removed and the boot replaced, with the shaft still attached to the differential. Plus you avoid possible damage to the differential seal. And on top of that, the left shaft on an automatic is apparently difficult to remove, and may have to be driven out from the other side (meaning removing the right side, sticking in a screwdriver from the right, and hammering the left axle out.

Am I missing something? What's to be gained by removing the shaft, except maybe some convenience factor?

My 2000 Maxima clear-coat seems to be in tough shape. Much of the car appears to have permanent spots that look like water spots.

Neither wax nor polish remove the spots.

The car has been garaged 4/5 years and I have always waxed the car in the fall and spring.

Whats the deal? The clear-coat on my wife's Chevy (which is a POS otherwise) is perfect and has been subjected to the same conditions.

If you're going to rebuild the outer joints yourself, you have to take them off the car. Give them a good jerk and they will come out of the transaxle. Then you can take the outer joints off and replace, repack or rebuild them. Plus, you should also replace the inner boots. Inner joints usually don't wear as much as the outer and may still have life in them. But the boots are probably rotted. My advice is to buy some reman'd shafts. You get new joints and boots and they will save you LOTS of time. I've done this to both my Maximas and my Daytona. Yes, I've used the cheaper AutoZone shafts, but I've never had a problem with their parts. Hey, these are old cars so why sink twice as much $$ in them when the discount parts work just as well. (I sense a flame attack coming on!! Come and get me, Steve in Atlanta!!) You should also replace the seals as they are worn, and you will probably damage them anyway in the removal process. Then you'll have a leak on your garage floor, like mine did!

Chris

90 & 94 GXE's

wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I'm not going to flame you, I've just had crappy experiences with reman axles, to the point we do NOT warranty the labor installing these even if they are bad the day we install them. It's not my fault these aren't made well and I'm not going to lose money trying to save someone money using these things.

I think you are MUCH better off just replacing the outer boots, I've never seen an inner boot fail.I have replaced them without removing the axles but I've done hundreds if not thousands of boot replacements, it's kind of tricky getting the outer CV joint off the axle shaft.

Nissan is pretty much a timing chain car company:)

CD