can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Thanks for your response. I have to plead ignorance here- I have no idea what the crank angle sensor is all about. I did, however, google it (here on this group and elsewhere), and noticed that often when the crank angle sensor was suspected, the car wouldn't start reliably. My Maxima starts right up, even when I was experiencing the difficulties, it would still start.

Does anyone else feel that it might be a fuel problem? Any experiences with temperature-related power loss? Or replacing the fuel pressure regulator? Or with this crank angle sensor causing my symptoms?

Thanks again.

Reply to
audiohire
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One more thing: I'd like to at least try to replace the fuel pump relay, to see if it clears it up (since it's only a $20 part, and would help me eliminate it as a cause if nothing else). I'm waiting for my Chilton manual to be shipped to me.....but getting impatient.

Can someone tell me where the fuel pump relay is? And, if it's under the rear seat bottom, how do I go about removing it?

Thanks again everyone.

Reply to
audiohire

Just curious..

While having my 2002 GLE in for its 60K service, I requested a throttle-body cleaning. Upon getting the car back, I saw nothing that had appeared disturbed.. the wide flex hose and clamp screws going to the intake still had years of dirt on them, no evidence of hand or screwdriver marks.

I later asked the service rep why this was and was told they don't touch any of that stuff, they attached a hose to a fitting somewhere and blow it out that way. Does this sound real? For $125 (I know I know).

Fueling my suspicion that nothing had been done, I noticed they didn't lube the car. Today I took it back and specifically told them I didn't get the lube job that came with the 60K service. When they were done, I checked and saw that only 4 out of 19 points (that I know of) were lubed.. and my doors were still stiff. No hinges, no hood/trunk/door latches, no fuel door hinge... just the sliders in the doors.

Anyway, any comments on the throttle body cleaning?? Thanks, Pat

Reply to
ali

Based on previous posts, if I'm not mistaken, when you program a new key, you have to do all the old keys again too.

john smith wrote:

Reply to
ali

Have a 1998 Maxima gxe. Use to release the pressure after opening the gas tank to fill up. (made noise like the air came out). Lately it hasn't been doing it? Is that a problem? Thanks

Reply to
Nikolai

hey all, was just wondering what you folks are getting for gas mileage on your 01 maxs (or similiar) with a 5 speed. I get between 22 and about 24 MPG (usually about 360 miles per tank or so) was also wondering what you guys usually shift at on the tach (I usually shift above 2 or so if I'm just cruising along. should I be shifting higher, basically wondering what the optimum shift points are. also does the optimal point change depending on the gear (say higher for first, a little lower for 2nd, ext.) finally, do ANY of the gas mileage devices or engine additives actually help with gas mileage (fuel magnets, air filters, chevron wiht techron fuel additive, magic genie bottle ya rub to increase gas mileage, ext.) sorry for the long post, thanks!

Reply to
Dr. Nick

(snip)

Not sure about newer models, but Nissan says my 95 has a non-stick coating in the throttle body and recommends NOT using any cleaners on it. Unless you neglected your air filter or ran without it, there should not be any dirt in there anyway. Although, some people tend to clean the throttle body if the throttle gets sticky.

Reply to
David Efflandt

Bullwash. Had a 95 and (2) 97s, both subject to meticulous care in every way and by 30k they were both carboned up and a good cleaning with the toothbrush/carb cleaner was the ticket.

Every vehicle I've ever had has needed a good throttle body cleaning every now and then.

lol.

Reply to
Marc

I couldn't agree more. My 95 throttle was sticking bad, so I inspected the T body and what a mess. Toothbrush, old rag & carb cleaner worked great.

Reply to
WayneL

Hey, I don't blame you for not taking chances with discount parts. You have a reputation to maintain and aren't in business to lose money in the long run from having to do a job twice. Makes good business sense. But for the DIY mechanic trying save some cash and willing to take the chance, I think it's worth the risk if you're prepared to do the job again. Like I said, I haven't had any problems w/ AutoZone reman'd axles, but I'm sure there are those that have.

Chris

90 & 94 GXE's
Reply to
Chris H

Yeah, I've done 3-4 outer joints. But there may be a 3rd way depending on where you live. We have a place in Fort Worth called A.P.E or maybe D.A.P.E. (Discount Auto parts Exchange ?)that rebuilds half shafts from wrecking yards. For about $150 (last time I used the service was several years ago) you got a remanufacture half shaft installed, sometimes while you wait, with a lifetime warranty except for the boots. Considering the joint and new boot used to cost around 60-75 bucks that's not too bad. maybe they have a national presence of some kind? might be worth googling.

Carl

Chris H wrote:

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Yes, but is anyone aware if this can be done without removing or exposing the intake part of the throttle? Meaning removing the flex hose connecting to the part with the MAF? (they tell me the connect a hose somewhere and blow it out that way)

I'm just trying to figure out if this was another of the tasks that my dealer conveniently forgot to perform, but made sure to charge me for.

Thanks Pat

Reply to
ali

Other than maintenance, nope, nothing.

Consider yourself one of the lucky ones that gets about 300 miles per tank. My 2000 SE manual NEVER got better than 21.5 on the highway, and my 2002 GLE auto probably gets less. A lot of people have noticed this.. and yet there are a few who actually get better mileage than you so (or so they say).

Pat

"Dr. Nick" wrote:

Reply to
ali

-- Mr. Rajendra Singh

Reply to
Rajendra Singh

My symptoms were that the car would start, drive normally until it warmed up then stall. Let it cool down and the cycle would start all over again.

A fuel problem, I would guess since I am not an expert, would be more of an ongoing issue and wouldn't be intermittent.

Reply to
Will

I have a U.S. 2004 Nissan Maxima SL, and love it. One of the only downsides is the stipulation that it requires Premium gasoline. Given the recent large increase in gas prices, this is more of a problem.

What would be the consequences of using either of the lower octane gasolines in this vehicle?

I would assume mileage would be off some, but would this be enough to justify $.20/gallon additional cost for premium?

Would there be any long-term harmful effect of using lower octane gas?

Any knowledgeable recommendations would be appreciated.

Reply to
Don Cohen

Reply to
JimV

There is about a 20 cent difference, so filling the 18 gallon tank would cost a maximum of $3.60 more. That is true whether gas is selling for $1.59 or $2.29 per gallon. The 3.60 is a small price to pay for good performance and smooth driving. -- If cost is an issue, then I would just drive a little more conservatively.

I'm able to get about 24 MPG commuting to Seattle (in heavy traffic) with a

2004 2.5 Ltr.

Have a great day.

Reply to
Tom S

Pull the boot off and see if the TB is still dirty..

Reply to
Steve T

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