can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Nov 11, 2014 3638 Replies

Hey,



I bought a "new" electric driver's seat from a '90 GXE from a junkyard to replace the old, worn out, and now broken manual one on my '91 SE.



Under the manual seat is one electrical connector, but under the electric there are 2. Does anyone know what is involved in getting that second connector installed? Can I buy the connector and just do some splicing? I was not able to look at the junkyard GXE, but could if I have to (kinda far from home). My Haynes and Chiltons manuals are completely useless on this issue.



NissTech? Anyone?



Bill G '91 SE Auto



178,450 miles

Thanks much for the info on prying the halfshaft axle out - did take quite a bit of force to pop it. Not sure I'd have pryed quite that hard without your advice. Also, someone mentioned the gearoil draining when the shaft is removed (something Chilton's didn't feel necessary to mention).... VERY useful tip- I had my bucket ready! ;-)

Thanks!

One for the seatbelt light. One for the electric seat power. Run a wire from the fusebox and splice the wires with any connector you feel like using as long as it will handle the current.

Along with wiping the wipers off with some type of cleaner every so often, I squirt a little dish soap into the fluid before I dump it in and shake it up. Works great.

It makes no noise when the trans is in neutral, so I think your problem is a little different. What I (or we're) talking about is when letting it out and it's in gear, and as the clutch grabs it makes a noise that sounds like a cow with a sore throat.

Glad to be of help! Are you sure your tranny isn't overfilled? I didn't lose any fluid on my Max or my wife's Altima when I did the axles. Both of my cars are automatic, if you have a manual, maybe the fluid level is higher in the manual...

You can get good reman half shafts just about anywhere, and your trusty local mechanic can put it(them) in. From the noise you can usually tell which side is gone. Also inspection of the CV boots. I think mine for the 89 came from the local CarQuest parts store, or one of their partners. Good luck. Bob

95 SE Auto 89 SE Auto traded

noise. It

moving

...do the auto transmissions from the mid 90's have a bad rep??



tia



...


Not as long as they are maintained (fluid changed).

Great, thanks for the info. Mine makes that too, but it also whines a bit in neutral and kind of almost gargles when you start off in 1st gear.

thanks,

Derek

If you are talking about the generation up to 1994, I never had a tranny issue with my 3rd gen SE Auto. It was smooth as silk. OTOH, my 95 SE Auto is not as smooth and not as silky. Totally electronic; (no linkages) shifting not always when expected, but I have never had a failure or anything like that. Good luck. Bob

95 SE Auto 89 SE Auto traded

Your CV question sounds familiar..... That noise is pretty noticeable. Check the rubber boots - a bad CV likely has a torn boot. As soon as the boot tears, the lube flies all over the place, the dirt gets in, and the CV is junk. It is a rapid downhill process! Now is the time to replace one or both half shaft (axle) assemblies. Each side is replaced as a unit; not worth rebuilding the CV joints etc yourself. Yes, good remanufactured half shafts are available at most parts chains at much less than dealer prices.. Mine for the 89 came from CarQuest, who ordered it from a supplier. Your local trusty mechanic can do the install. Do not spend money on alignments until you get the CV(s) installed, because the CV work disturbs the alignment. The symptoms are simultaneous, but not necessarily related. Do the CV(s) first, get the alignment, and then see where you stand. Good luck. Bob

95 SE Auto 89 SE Auto traded

turn. Can't

I hate to bust your bubble Bob but both transmissions are electronically controlled

The only mechanical connection the 2 transmissions share is the shift control cable, the control cable is what selects the gear or drive position the transmission is put into by the driver. All the other shift characteristics are governed by the transmission control modgule.

Anyone have any ideas about what might cause the auto button on the driver's side to stop opening the trunk? I can hear it clicking but it doesn't pop the latch and spring open anymore. I've sprayed the area with WD-40 so it doesn't seem to be sticking and still opens fine with the key manually. The keyless button doesn't work either. Any ideas where I should start on diagnosing the problem will be appreciated.



As I've posted previously, my 90 has some controller "issues" in that it doesn't drop into 1st gear when I put it in D when cold. I then get 16 flashes on the power light when I restart. My 90 was rebuilt last year after 130k miles and now shifts great but still has the controller problem. Knowing what it is, I work around it. My 94 has 114k miles and shifts better than most new cars. I change the fluid in both religiously. From what I've heard from others, these trannies need rebuilding around 120k or so, or they sometimes go to 200k- it just depends.

Chris

90 & 94 GXE's

If you can here the latch clicking then the problem is probably mechanical.

Open the trunk and see if the mechanism works with the remote button.

rtt

Thanks Chris. The plug extracted more easily than I thought and I drained the choclate syrup looking garbage with no surprises... except maybe for the nasty sludge on the plug. I appreciate the prompt reply.

Peace,

Pete

NT, thanks for the clarification. Whatever the reason, there is one helluva difference between 3rd gen and 4th gen transmissions, IMHO. If there is something I can do to improve the shifting in the 95, please do advise. TIA Bob

electronically

shift

My car will crank but will not turn over...replaced fuel pump and sensors...timing belt...coils...spark plugs...fuel filter...where do I go from here.



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