can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Has any one come up with a good additive to add to the blue washer fluid to help it clean better?

Need some advice on clutch groan. When I am stuck in stop and go traffic in my '99SE 5Speed the clutch will make a groaning noise after several repeated start and stop cycles. It's been doing this for at least three years now and doesn't seem to be causing any problems. Any idea what causes this noise? Thanks in Adavance

Maybe the shifter solenoid failed. That's what unlocks the shifter when you step on the brake pedal. Make sure your brake lights are working (same switch). Look in your owner's manual. I thought there was a way to override the safety mechanism.

it's probably the release bearing starting to go.

Monkey piss.

;-)

But if it growls just after you release the clutch at low rpm in 1st gear, that may be normal (I have noticed that with my 95 SE since new, if I launch aggressively). Not sure if that is from a combination of bearings, cv joints, motor mounts, or gears torquing up (not from anything slipping).

However, if growl during launch becomes noticeably worse, it could be a bad wheel bearing (I had right front bearing go bad years ago, possibly from bumping a curb).

Hey,

My driver's seat has been slightly off-kilter for the last 6 months or so, and it finally "snapped", literally. Something broke in the upper section, and now the seat leans back so far I can't drive it. Basically, I need a new seat. So I have a couple of questions.

'91 SE with manual seats.

1. Can I use parts of the passenger seat to fix the driver's seat? What parts are interchangeable? I know this is a temporary fix, or all my passengers ride in the back.

1. Can I use parts of electric seats to do the replacement? There is a junkyard near me that has 1 Maxima (90 GXE I think), that has power seats.

2. What are some manufacturer's of replacement seats? I'm not looking for anything performance oriented (178,000 miles on the car), just something I can install and not worry about. What kind of costs? My Google searches keep coming up with either Child Seats, or Seat covers.

Thanks for any info you have.

Bill G '91 SE Auto

Hey again,

Symptom #1: Tires are about a year old, but are worn on the inside of the tire. Had an alignment when I purchased them. This suggests either the camber is off, or they are toeing out. What suspension issues can cause this?

Symptom #2: While at a stop, if I turn the wheel to the left, then start a left turn, I hear/feel a popping noise coming from the lower right front of the car. I don't notice it very much if I "flow" through a left turn. Can't really tell if it happens while turning right. What would cause this? I was thinking ball joints, but now I think it's the CV joints. If so, should I replace the entire half-shaft? And if so, where should I get it? The dealer cost is $640-ish just for the part.

Are these problems related? I was going to get an alignment, but now I'm going to have the suspension looked at before I do anything.

A mechanic near me suggested a few things, one of which was possible worn sway bar bushings. They look OK, but are 14 years/178K miles old.

I'll have more info on Thursday after the suspension is looked at.

Thanks for the help.

Bill G '91 SE Auto

Sounds live a CV joint.. ..does it pop repeatedly during the turn? When mine went in my 93SE, around 180K miles, it went 'clunk clunk clunk' during the turn then stopeed while going straight.

"Bill G" wrote:

Yep, that's a very good description of what I have going on. I got a scare from the dealer when he quoted me $600+ for each half-shaft, but have since found several other options at a significantly lower price.

Thanks for the reply.

Bill G

Most likely cause is the works has gotten sticky from one too many spilled drink. There is a solenoid at the base of the shift lever that pushes the interlock away when the ignition is on, the button on the shifter is pressed and the brake pedal is pressed.

Pop off the cover plate around the shifter (an old putty knife wrapped in a piece of old t-shirt is good for this, start in the rear corners and move towards the front). Look down in there around the right side at the base of the shifter and you should see the solenoid. At the right front of the shifter mount you should see the junction of the rod from the solenoid, the interlock cable from the ignition switch and the rotating plate that blocks the shifter from moving. If this is sticky, try cleaning it up. also check that the switch mounted on the brake pedal has not become dislodged. Otherwise, its probably the solenoid has failed. It will need to be replaced (about $70 for the part at Courtesy Nissan).

Unfortunately, there is no simple bypass like the Hondas have, but if you look closely at the mechanism, you can see where a long screwdriver can be used to manually move the little plate out of the way so the shifter will move. I used this technique for about a week while I figured out how to fix mine.

I have a '91 Nissan maxima GXE 5spd (190K) that needs 4 new struts and one drive axle (driver's side). 2 Questions:

1. Do I need a spring compressor to remove the springs or will full droop of the wheel be enough to get the springs off?

1. Are there any "gotchas" or special tools required to replace the drive axle?

TIA,

Derek

I have a '91 Nissan maxima GXE 5spd (190K) that needs 4 new struts and one drive axle (driver's side). 2 Questions:

1. Do I need a spring compressor to remove the springs or will full droop of the wheel be enough to get the springs off?

1. Are there any "gotchas" or special tools required to replace the drive axle?

TIA,

Derek

If anyone knows the colours for the wires that run from the injector to the ECU for a 2001 Maxima, please let me know.

Thank you.

How about wiping the blade with a wet napkin to clean them off. Also, put the defroster onto the windhsield in the hottest setting to soften up the rubber on the blades to make them wipe better.

HTH

CD